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Thread: Scan tool or code reader for RRC

  1. #1
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    Scan tool or code reader for RRC

    Hello,

    I've recently purchased a 94 softdash. It has a multiple of issues that I need to repair. A scan tool would make life simpler.

    Im curious if the likes of Nanocom will work? Are they available for RRC's? Are there any other cheapish code readers or scan tools available?

    Many thanks.
    Michael.

  2. #2
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    All USA RRCs after about 1990 ? have a code reader under the drivers seat.

    I was able to buy one before the wreckers realised that they were saleable but I gave it to the buyer of my RRC.

    So try ebay USA or some wreckers directly and you may get one for a reasonable price, as after I posted on AULRO all of sudden there were lots of enquiries so the prices went up, but that was about 10 years ago..

    You have to arrange wires from the ECU as the plug under the seat is not for the scan reader.

    Regards Philip A

  3. #3
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    Hi Philip,
    Thanks for your reply. I have done hours and hours of searching through this forum trying to get to the bottom of all the issues on this Rangie. Nearly every post with any good info I find you are involved. So thanks for all your previous posts too.
    So besides the USA models having a scan reader under the seat is there an obd plug or diagnostic plug on my softdash? How can I read fault codes on this car. It seems one of a few previous owners has removed the globes for engine and abs lights from the dash.

  4. #4
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    No there's is no OBD plug.
    You will have to get a wiring diagram and add 2 wires to the 40 pin plug, plus a power wire which I just put a cigarette plug on.

    The 14 CUX does not adapt so the scan tool is not all that great and I never saw a fault unless I deliberately say disconnected the MAF.

    AFAIR there're was a scan tool in UK which was better than the stock one and plugged into the diagnostic socket under the seat, but I don't ,know if it is still available.
    Lots of problems with 14 CUX are actually mechanical such as seized injectors on gas ,stepper motor dead, plugs and leads dead,distributor seized,fuel pump, and maybe dead MAF. And of course the old head gasket and
    stuck exhaust valves and worn out camshaft.
    Regards Philip A

  5. #5
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    Well that makes more sense. I've searched high and low but couldn't find a diagnostic plug.
    My rangie is very rich at idle. It burns your eyes if left idling for 2 minutes and there is no wind. When the car is cold I can select d or r and it doesn't stall. It hunts a little bit in gear when stationary but doesn't stall most of the time.
    When the engine is warm it stalls every time its put in gear..
    The plugs, leads dizzy cap and rotor button are all new.
    Its hard to get an exact timing reading as it will not idle below 950. It stalls even in neutral if I manually adjust the idle down.
    I have 30-32psi fuel pressure at idle
    No fuel in pressure reg vac hose.
    Coolant temp thermistor and fuel temp sensor are within expected range hot and cold.
    Vacuum advance is moving inside the dizzy and the nipple at the plenum isn't blocked once the throttle is opened.
    AFM, I'm struggling to test this correctly.
    IACV is clean and has correct reading at ecu using a multimeter
    TPS is reading correct at ecu and seems smooth through its range.

    C02 test came back positive. But its random. Drive for 10 mins its negative. Next day drive for 10 mins is positive.
    So in your opinion Philip can a head gasket cause these issues? Even when the engine is hot and C02 is negative its still very rich and stalling. Its very rich even when its cold as soon as its started.

    I appreciate your help.
    Thank you.

  6. #6
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    Sounds like a crook MAF.
    Check to see that the initial setting of the MAF is at 0.75 Volts or thereabouts.

    It is a good idea to GENTLY twist the contacts in the MAF male plug a few degrees to ensure good contacts with the female and to thoroughly clean both.

    If you pull back the rubber boot you can also back probe the MAF plug and see what the signal is doing as you rev the motor. AFAIR from years ago it the contact closest the engine , but I may be wrong. In any case one will be 5Volts, one earth and one will vary.
    The best way to check a blown head gasket is a simple old compression test. If you have a blown gasket between 2 cylinders both will be well down.
    Stuck exhaust valve is a bit more tricky and I don't know how to reliably tell. Maybe take off the rocker covers and give each exhaust valve a tap with a hammer and see what they sound like. Usually a stuck exhaust valve will cause a miss under load. If you remove the rocker covers and inlet manifold and the valley cover you can have a look at the camshaft and lifters. yellowing and wear on the shoulders is bad.

    Usually if the oil residue inside the rocker covers is black and thick then the oil has not been changed regularly and the camshaft will be toast. Light honey is the preferred option.
    Regards Philip A

    Regards Philip A

  7. #7
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    Thanks again Philip.
    So a mate gave m his 3 spare afms today. 1 from a running car. All 3 made absolutely no difference.

    I have just noticed quite a bit of induction noise around the rear of the plenum. It sounds like its at the rear but underneath. The plenum has lots of blue silicone around the joins and it doesn't look like it was done very long ago. I'm wondering if its got a vacuum leak. I'm not familiar with how LR v8s normally sound so the noise might be normal. I also previously have experienced air leaks to make a vehicle lean not rich.

    I will do a compression test later in the week before I spend anymore time fluffing around.

    Thanks again.

  8. #8
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    The 3/4" ID hose to the IAC valve (idle stepper) can split underneath out of your sight. The hose usually goes rock hard after 20 years and anyone fiddling with it will cause it to break. Also check that the vac hose for the fuel pressure regulator is a good fit on its vacuum nipple around the back of the plenum. Most I've seen are really loose or split and need replacing.

  9. #9
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    Thanks bee utey.
    You are right the hose to the fpr is loose but crimping it off made no difference. It also didn't raise the fuel pressure which I thought was a bit strange.
    The IACV pipe is actually softish. I didn't pay real good attention to it though so I will double check that.
    There is definitely a whistle coming from that area but I've sprayed carby cleaner in the area and the idle did not increase. I also tried water and the idle did not drop.
    Over the next couple of days when I get a chance I will re check those items.
    Thanks for your input bee utey. I appreciate it.

  10. #10
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    The plate that the idle stepper joins to can also work loose so check the bolts.
    Regards Philip A

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