Thread: Madman EMS2 - for TD5

Leaky cooler line resolved and in hindsight I caused it by having the ATF cooler sender placed in a T in the factory soft line between the hard pipe that runs under the sump and the factory cooler. This soft line is a push/crimp fit
From the factory and these crimps are a known weak point. Us playing around cutting the line and installing the T pce
For the sender has no doubt weakened the the factory joins. The fix I have now that is abt 1500 towing km old is to do away with the factory line and crimps and clamp straight onto the hard pipes. Does require an elbow though so the line does not kink.

Originally Posted by AdamHunter

.....
3/4 lockup 40-50C alll day long. Up hill or down , towing or not. At night it sits around high 30s, even with the ATF leak!
Unlocked , it just climbs from the get go. More than 2500rpm for a decent period of time and it just climbs like a clock. BIG hill 2nd and 1st unlocked out of hairpins and you end up at high 90s before long , even with my extra cooler. At that point I back off to 2300 if I can't pull over and give it a break.
That will stabilise the temp in the low 90s. Pulled over idle in neutral for 2-3 minutes and temp will drop back to abt 60.
....

According to this web page, shouldn't run an auto transmission with the fluid/oil below about 65°C(150°F) .. measured at the oil pan/sump.
They comment that an auto can be overcooled using too many aux coolers.
They recommended auto oil operating temp to be at about 79°C(175°F) .. so lets call it 80°C for maximum transmission life.
90°C is fine as an auto fluid operating temp.
Their table of temps vs expected longevity lists 195°C as the next step down in durability reduction. 195°F = about 97°C.

Note that the web page is one linked too via Ashcrofts FAQ area.

Originally Posted by AK83

According to this web page, shouldn't run an auto transmission with the fluid/oil below about 65°C(150°F) .. measured at the oil pan/sump.
They comment that an auto can be overcooled using too many aux coolers.
They recommended auto oil operating temp to be at about 79°C(175°F) .. so lets call it 80°C for maximum transmission life.
90°C is fine as an auto fluid operating temp.
Their table of temps vs expected longevity lists 195°C as the next step down in durability reduction. 195°F = about 97°C.

Note that the web page is one linked too via Ashcrofts FAQ area.

Good point. I have a professionally fit 2nd trans cooler in mine and otherwise very similar to Adamhunter's setup, and am concerned that it does not get hot enough in light working situations.

Have been thinking of fitting a temp controlling unit - this one to restrict oil flow was suggested quite some time ago as a possibility - any thoughts from the wise? Derale 25792 - just found an aulro post on the subject (to which I now read I was a forgotten contributor).
switch for transmission oil cooler fan



Definitely going down this route. Cheers Gavin

I was concerned about the 40deg temp on the cooler line when locked up for a while.
I'm keen to hear if anyone has a temp gauge in the same position as I do but only the factory cooler - be interested to know what temps are normal. If no luck getting that info I might just bypass my extra cooler and go for a run to get some baseline info.
The 40deg does surprise me, given the flow would be AT-#2 cooler-factory cooler-temp sender-AT to be showing such a low reading. Given factory cooler is influenced by Rad Temp, which is always 85+.

Originally Posted by AdamHunter

I'd hope that a burst atf line would show a temp rise before the box is damaged, though I don't know if that would be the case. Probably erratic gear change or maybe unlock right before the big bang .

I guess that depends on what you mean by 'burst'. Mine popped one of the quick connectors off. Result, instant loss of drive.

Thanks for a very comprehensive summary. I look forward to putting the Nanocom on mine for comparisons.

Are you able to show wher you connected the Earth please.

I am am having earthing issues with my oil pressure sensor on my ems 1 connected to my Td5 D2.

Mine is is currently earthed I the intake manifold. Suspect it's not earthed properly and I will need to relocate it.


Cheers, Chris

Originally Posted by 4runnernomore

Are you able to show wher you connected the Earth please.

I am am having earthing issues with my oil pressure sensor on my ems 1 connected to my Td5 D2.

Mine is is currently earthed I the intake manifold. Suspect it's not earthed properly and I will need to relocate it.


Cheers, Chris

The intake manifold is alloy, that won't give a great earth. The earth out of the loom is earthed to one of the earth studs near the ecu and fuse box. The oil pressure sender had an earth pin on it for that specific earth. The oil temp sender I had a brazed tab attached to the brass T to run an earth to, as the brass T and sender sit in a rubber hose line.

Morning all,

Sorry for the thread dig.

I am having issues again with my EMS1 . It is approx 11 years old now.

seemed to start when I had to replace my engine due to a cracked head and bent rod.
when everything was all bolted up and running sweet again the coolant temperature was reading backwards. Ie when it would normally be reading 79-80 degrees it shows 35 as an example. We tried everything to fix that issue but couldn’t resolve it. Tried different temp senders and checked and rechecked earth. Couldn’t resolve it before moving from Darwin to Ipswich in Jan 2020. What we did do was install a red arc combo with boost, EGT and water temp to resolve issue, ems reading no longer required. Interesting observation between the read arc gauge and EMS was the sensitivity. Red arc adjust EGT’s much quicker than the Madman unit. Quite important as due to my tune I need to drive by my EGT readings.

recently my coolant level alarm on t EMS is starting to sound at random times. Level is checked and there is no issues. I am losing all confidence in the unit now but don’t want to ignore it in case one day it tells the truth. Has anyone had similar issues or Have any advice?

I really like the concept and when it was working properly no issues at all. Do we know if the units degrade over time and have to be replaced etc. look forward to replies. I read somewhere so one had some issues and reapplied the cables fixing the issue (I think it was an ems2 unit).

Cheers Chris