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Thread: Nanocom advice

  1. #11
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    Awesome i thought so but have only ever done the pedal pumping with all the cars so this I'm wowdoes it work hahaNanocom adviceNanocom adviceNanocom advice
    Quote Originally Posted by Tins View Post
    That's the point. Power bleeding does it for you. Imperative you keep the res topped up.

  2. #12
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    Well, that bleed procedure was absolutely amazing!!! Nanocom is awesome Nanocom advice

  3. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by Epic_Dragon View Post
    Well, that bleed procedure was absolutely amazing!!! Nanocom is awesome Nanocom advice
    Yep. So is the car, L.
    ​JayTee

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  4. #14
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    That it is Nanocom adviceNanocom advice
    Quote Originally Posted by Tins View Post
    Yep. So is the car, L.

  5. #15
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    Just reviving this as having some brake troubles,

    After this awesome brake bleed procedure, and the new master cylinder, had the most incredible brakes. After my car sat for the couple of months having the timing gear fixed, the brakes have been really soft. They stop the car, and will even engage abs as I foubd when a kangaroo jumped out infront of me the other week. Have spent last few days finally trying to re bleed, manual bleeds, power bleeds, following above. I have a nice pedal when car is off but as soon as its running, the pedal just goes almost to the floor. I can pump it and it feels normal for a second but then will sink.
    Trying to fix it asap as well good brakes are important for anyone but driving with arms, I need them to be amazing Nanocom advice above average even. They stop but I'm pushing hand controls into my leg as the pedal sinks.
    Is this master cylinder faulty? I believe it's a Britpart one, and have heard they aren't great? But I can't find anything else. Only got it I think August/September and it was brand new.
    The weird T piece on the brake booster vacuum line has nothing on it and I don't know if it's meant to Nanocom advice

  6. #16
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    The booster is working, proven by the pedal sinking when you start the engine.
    Sounds like the master cylinder is dodgy, does the fluid level drop? Is there any evidence of brake fluid under the master cylinder, either inside the car or in the engine bay?
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  7. #17
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    No fluid leaks, fluid levels stay full. Wonder if air is leaking in from somewhere Nanocom advice or a dodgy master cylinder. Mine would be warranty I think at least

  8. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by Epic_Dragon View Post
    No fluid leaks, fluid levels stay full.
    In that case it's another vote for a dodgy M/C. if you pull it and there's fluid at the back it pays to check if the fluid has leaked back into the booster. Not the end of the world, and prolly unlikely if the level hasn't dropped.
    ​JayTee

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    1994 D1 300TDi Manual: Dave
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  9. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by Epic_Dragon View Post
    No fluid leaks, fluid levels stay full. Wonder if air is leaking in from somewhere Nanocom advice or a dodgy master cylinder. Mine would be warranty I think at least

    If you're driving an original series 2 disco try updating to the 2A front callipers - they are a lot smaller than the early ones.

    This results in less initial fluid displacement when the brakes are pressed - this for some reason stops the pedal from sinking.

    It's not a faulty master issue, rather some weird design flaw with the whole setup (IMO)

    - I've yet to try it on mine, but have tested the principle by blocking the MC ports - should work.
    not sure if LR downgraded the brakes on the update model for this reason?

  10. #20
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    Mine is the original 2. I'll go compsre with dads 2a, I'm curious now with the difference Nanocom advice
    Mine have always been really good, until this new master cylinder. Even now some days they are great then others, I push brake into my leg (hand controls) car does always stop still.
    I need to properly fix it as it's injuring my shoulder. I'll check this option out thankyou
    Quote Originally Posted by FNQLR View Post
    If you're driving an original series 2 disco try updating to the 2A front callipers - they are a lot smaller than the early ones.

    This results in less initial fluid displacement when the brakes are pressed - this for some reason stops the pedal from sinking.

    It's not a faulty master issue, rather some weird design flaw with the whole setup (IMO)

    - I've yet to try it on mine, but have tested the principle by blocking the MC ports - should work.
    not sure if LR downgraded the brakes on the update model for this reason?

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