I have always undone the LH rear mounts as well. It makes it heaps easier and its only 2 bolts.
I am in the process of replacing the front rear diff mount in my FL1. The diff is in place with everything still connected. I have managed to get the old mount out, the damaged rubber made it relatively easy.
However I cannot get the new mount in place - why Land Rover did not make the bracket that holds mount removable. People who designed these things should be be made to work on them.
I replaced the front mount 90,000km ago and remember is was a bit of a pain to get in then but I was also replacing the diff and had a few things off it.
So, those who have done this recently - what is the trick - I know it can be done without pulling bits off - just how escapes me.
Woko - where are you??
Garry
REMLR 243
2007 Range Rover Sport TDV6
1977 FC 101
1976 Jaguar XJ12C
1973 Haflinger AP700
1971 Jaguar V12 E-Type Series 3 Roadster
1957 Series 1 88"
1957 Series 1 88" Station Wagon
I have always undone the LH rear mounts as well. It makes it heaps easier and its only 2 bolts.
Oh - Ok - was considering loosening the four diff cradle bolts and letting the lot drop about an inch but wasn't sure if I would have enough room.
So unbolting the rear (by LH I assume you mean the drivers side ) mount from the diff will allow it to drop enough to get the front one in?
That front diff mount arrangement looks like it was designed by a 5 yo.
Thanks - was hoping you would come along.
Garry
REMLR 243
2007 Range Rover Sport TDV6
1977 FC 101
1976 Jaguar XJ12C
1973 Haflinger AP700
1971 Jaguar V12 E-Type Series 3 Roadster
1957 Series 1 88"
1957 Series 1 88" Station Wagon
It doesn't matter which one you loose LH or RH it will give you enough room with a bit of cursing to get it to fit. You can unbolt both of them at the rear and it will go straight in. I have never tried unbolting the sub frame. Give it a go and let us know if it works.
Finally got back to it today. I removed the bolts that hold the diff to the drivers side mount but I could still not get enough room and came close to denting or putting a hole in the tank trying to get it in. The heads of the bolts on the passenger side diff mount were a bit suss so I left them alone.
I then decided to do my least attractive option - that is heat the front mount and bent it out a bit (mild steel and none structural) - did this and it went straight in - took a whole 15mins to heat, cool, insert mount, lightly heat mount and tighten and cool before the heat got to the rubber - too easy.
Thanks for all the pointers.
Cheers
Garry
REMLR 243
2007 Range Rover Sport TDV6
1977 FC 101
1976 Jaguar XJ12C
1973 Haflinger AP700
1971 Jaguar V12 E-Type Series 3 Roadster
1957 Series 1 88"
1957 Series 1 88" Station Wagon
 Fossicker
					
					
						Fossicker
					
					
                                        
					
					
						Will be doing my rear diff mounts at the weekend, I will be replacing all 3. Does the diff need to be aligned or will it align itself when tightening the bolts up?
There is a service tool for aligning, I have changed heaps of these and never used it.
Garry, if it makes you feel any better, it's even harder on a Camel Freelander with the underbody protection getting in the way too!!!
M
REMLR 243
2007 Range Rover Sport TDV6
1977 FC 101
1976 Jaguar XJ12C
1973 Haflinger AP700
1971 Jaguar V12 E-Type Series 3 Roadster
1957 Series 1 88"
1957 Series 1 88" Station Wagon
| Search AULRO.com ONLY! | Search All the Web! | 
|---|
|  |  | 
Bookmarks