Thread: 98 xedi - lseries head gasket

Never had the issue so can't really help with this one - except you will get lots of comments about dropped liners etc etc etc - well of those sort of comments do not apply to the L series - K series yes, L series no.

A blown head gasket on a L series is a rare occurrence - the block is iron so unless there has been a major other issue - shouldn't be a problem. In view of the hassles in changing the cam and injection pump belts I would put new ones in - they have to come off anyway.

Good luck with it.

Garry

Thanks Garry - I hear you on the belts - will be replacing both belts and going over all the perishable hoses, mounts etc to get everything up to scratch.

Our k-series has had some internal mods (as well as the thermostat relocation / updated head gasket etc) to prevent the liners dropping - a groove was machined on the outside of the liner and a thin o-ring installed such that the o-ring binds the liner where it passes through (and is glued to) the block webbing to help hold it at the correct protrusion - was a little extra cheap insurance - but the thermostat / gasket updates and keeping a very close eye on the cooling system in total will keep the kseries belting along fine. The low coolant alarm you can fit is prudent too - catches a blown radiator hose quick enough to stop cooking the engine.

Looking forward to getting the diesel going - My wife's decided she'll take it once it's sorted - prefers the red paint colour.... * shrug *

Appreciate your help.

If you have a hoist & the space, it's a lot easier dropping the engine out & working with the engine on the deck.

If all in situ, the belts at either end can be fiddly due to the lack of space but still doable. Word of warning though, be very careful with the oil pump casing... Don't split it coz they are now obsolete (took me a couple of weeks to find one for mine)!

As for the head gasket... I've never heard of one going on an L series. Get some pics as I'd be interested to see where the problem is.

M

Cheers mate - I have an engine crane - but from your post - sounds like it's easier to drop the lot out the bottom as a unit, rather than pull the gbox / IRD under the car to get the engine out the top....

I guess - if I pull the engine - I can check the clutch / IRD etc - and then I'd be tempted to do the engine bearings / rings / pistons (they're getting quite cheap to buy nos on the interwebs) - slippery slope... The car has 230k on the clock, and I don't think has been treated all that kindly in the last 3-5 years.

It does need a core plug in the middle of the back of the block replaced - the overpressurisation of the cooling system seems to have started it weeping coolant - I figured with the head off it wouldn't be too hard to get to - but with the whole lot out it would be a doddle.

It'll be a week or two before I get started - we've just moved house and the shed is still full of boxes.. I'll definitely post plenty of pics as I go for when one of you spots something awry I've missed.

Cheers,

IF the worst comes to the worst - they're flogging off brand new L-Series blocks here for less than $300.

Might be an option if yours is looking dubious.

Wow - what a great find, I've never seen that site before. Cheers !

If they havnt coolant in them the headgasket rusts through. they are a straight forward head to do the hardest part is the timing belts. did you get it off ebay?

Hi Woko, yep - where would we be without fleabay?
Thanks for the tip, expansion bottle has rust residue as well, so block bound to be corroded in water jacket. Id say she started using water, and just been topped up with no glycol for a while. I'll probably get the head off this weekend to see how the land lies.

Appreciate the advice !

Cheers,