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Thread: Final Drive Removal

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    Albany, WA
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    Final Drive Removal

    I know there's been plenty on this subject (well propshaft removal really)
    I have done this due to a few things wrong - VCU damper failed, propshaft
    bearings knackered, FDU bearings a bit shot etc etc. And a low pitched
    hum coming from the FDU.
    So I have removed the propshaft which has cleared up some squeaks coming
    from that area, but not the noise coming from the FDU.
    My question is, now that I have the propshaft out, and questionable
    whether I would put it back. Don't really do any 4WD necessary stuff and
    what I do do is on pretty hard beach sand - did that yesterday in 2WD
    with no problem.
    Can I remove the FDU and rear drive shafts as well. They're
    not doing anything and all the stability in the rear wheels is maintained
    by the various linkages that are attached to the hub.
    I have to have this car running all the time - can't afford to have
    it off the road while I test and try and figure out what's causing
    the noise. If I lift the car and turn the rear wheels the left hand
    one is OK, while the right makes a noise that seems to be coming
    from the inside, near or in the FDU.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Location
    Hunter Valley
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    Yes you could do it.
    You would have to split the outer CV joint from the shaft and refit it because the outer CV joint holds the hub to the bearing.
    You would need to remove the guts out of the CV joint as well, as the guts may come out while in motion and this could be a serious hazard for other drivers.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    Albany, WA
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    Thanks Woko - couldn't see any reason why not, but I'm no expert
    and didn't want to do something stupid. What I thought of doing was
    leaving the CV as is with the boot on it and plugging the end so nothing
    could get in. Wasn't really thinking of the guts of the CV getting out.
    round plug the diameter of the drive shaft with a pipe clamp over the end?

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Location
    Hunter Valley
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    Getting the guts out is not that hard. you roll the balls out one by one then the cage and inner race will come out. without the shaft in the inner race you wont keep the internals in. You will get vibrational issues once it starts to fall apart untill it rips the boot off and flys out.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    Albany, WA
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    Thanks Woko. Did as you advised, but in the end it was a misdiagnosis.
    My son and I raised the wheel and turned it and it sounded like the
    noise was coming from the inside near the the Final Drive.

    I removed all that stuff - drive shafts, CV innards (messy business) and the
    problem remained and could then only be one thing - the bearing.
    And look at it





    I needed it done in a hurry (I already have a pair of bearings on their way from the UK at 14 pound each)
    but I need to drive up to Perth tomorrow and they won't be here till next week, so
    I had to get one from Land Rover in Albany - $150.
    I then found one exactly the same from Island 4x4 for $10. So LR have 1000% markup.
    Nice work if you can get it. And Gerry Harvey has the cheek to moan about
    people getting stuff from overseas

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