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Thread: Freelander L motor problems

  1. #1
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    Freelander L motor problems

    Hi All

    If you don't own a Freelander, pass this thread by and never look back!

    I have Grahams 02/98 L diesel Freelander, in my yard at the moment and it is a sick machine, the blow by through the engine breather is immense. No 1 suspect; the head gasket again! Graham has replaced this gasket a couple of times in the last couple of years that he has own it, the last one went on twelve months ago when a new head was fitted, the motor doesn't start too bad and sounds normal as a motor should sound. Can anyone confirm the diagnosis of a blown head gasket?

    Next fault is something you can live with, but is an annoyance that can be done without. Graham did replaced the turbo with a second hand unit and since that work he has had problems with the Electronic Diesel Control.
    The engine management light displays after traveling for ten seconds, the engine will run quite happily at low power, until you need to accelerate, to get out of this fault mode you sharply lift off the accelerator then the light goes out and acceleration is now possible. To check what is responsible, I would dearly like access to a running car and be able to swop over the MAP and MAF sensors.

    Am I on the right path here? I have adjusted the boost pressure so that it peaks briefly at 19 PSI and settles at 17 PSI boost. At this setting the motor doesn't take long at climbing a constant but easy slope, for the temperature to rise to where it is boiling.
    The motor runs a lot better at 17 PSI peak and settles at 15 PSI, at that boost the temperature stays at normal, but the engine management light is still coming on.

    There are problems with the rear drive line but that's for another thread and only if the motor problems prove that they are not insurmountable, read, is Graham throwing good money after bad with this vehicle?
    .

  2. #2
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    I really cannot help with diagnosis other than to say the problems are not symptomatic of this engine which is very robust and extremely reliable. Mine has done 270,000km and is still running like new.

    As far as the issue related to the check engine light coming on - have you had the codes read as this will point you in the right direction.

    Good luck with it.

    Garry
    REMLR 243

    2007 Range Rover Sport TDV6
    1977 FC 101
    1976 Jaguar XJ12C
    1973 Haflinger AP700
    1971 Jaguar V12 E-Type Series 3 Roadster
    1957 Series 1 88"
    1957 Series 1 88" Station Wagon

  3. #3
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    L of a fix we're in

    Quote Originally Posted by garrycol View Post
    I really cannot help with diagnosis other than to say the problems are not symptomatic of this engine which is very robust and extremely reliable. Mine has done 270,000km and is still running like new.

    As far as the issue related to the check engine light coming on - have you had the codes read as this will point you in the right direction.
    Good luck with it. Garry
    Hi Garry

    Thanks for the prompt reply.

    I have placed the wheels in motion (money), for a friend of mine to obtain the unlock key for his software, so the faults can then be read again.

    The previous time the codes were read (about six months ago), they did point to the MAP and MAF sensors. The faulty component wasn't found then and still is the same problem that I have now been asked to fix.

    That is why I have started looking for another L motor Freelander to use to fault find by substitution.
    .

  4. #4
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    Justinc loves Freelanders - get him to have a look at it.

    Garry
    REMLR 243

    2007 Range Rover Sport TDV6
    1977 FC 101
    1976 Jaguar XJ12C
    1973 Haflinger AP700
    1971 Jaguar V12 E-Type Series 3 Roadster
    1957 Series 1 88"
    1957 Series 1 88" Station Wagon

  5. #5
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    proper party pooper

    Quote Originally Posted by garrycol View Post
    Justinc loves Freelanders - get him to have a look at it. Garry


    I was talking to Justin late last week and the conversation all but stopped when there was a very slight mention of a Freelander !
    .

  6. #6
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    Diagnosis is as any other engine. constant bubbles in header tank, Constant over heating, pressure instantly in cooling system etc, you could also get it checked with a sniffer.

    Head gaskets are not common on these (these are a near bullet proof engine, The TD5 is based on them), if he has done a few of them there must be another issue, with a new head fitted and it is blown check the block deck for level (if you need to remove head)
    Has it been cooked recently?
    Has radiator been serviced?
    Has he been replacing head bolts when doing gasket?
    Hard to say what the light could be really, need to get the codes read.
    More than welcome to swap bits with mine but it's a bit of a drive

  7. #7
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    Checks for blown head gasket

    Thanks Woko

    This is an excellent list for fault finding you have put together here. I will add some more info for those that are reading about this problem for the first time.

    Quote Originally Posted by woko View Post
    Diagnosis is as any other engine. constant bubbles in header tank, Constant over heating, pressure instantly in cooling system etc, you could also get it checked with a sniffer.
    To clarify the term sniffer, here is a short youtube clip with the description.

    How to tell if your head gasket is blown - YouTube


    Head gaskets are not common on these (these are a near bullet proof engine, The TD5 is based on them), if he has done a few of them there must be another issue, with a new head fitted and it is blown check the block deck for level (if you need to remove head)
    I will ask if this was done.

    Has it been cooked recently?
    Yes, the car has given Graham problems ever since the rear welsh plug let go in Queensland, whilst the coolant was a good colour at the time, the corroded plug showed the car had a history of poor maintenance with the coolant.

    Has radiator been serviced?
    only back flushed, not removed to be serviced yet as far as I am aware, I am going to suggest to Graham to get the cores rodded.

    Has he been replacing head bolts when doing gasket?
    New bolts were sent with the head from "Tuners Engineering", I believe .

    Hard to say what the light could be really, need to get the codes read.
    'Alex' is looking at purchasing a unlock key for his diagnostic program.

    More than welcome to swap bits with mine but it's a bit of a drive.
    Thanks for the offer, but I don't think Graham's budget would stretch that far, it would be a chance to escape for a while though.

  8. #8
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    take it away!!

    I threw the towel in on this job.

    Too many faults and was going to cost days of work to get a old car going and in the end Graham decided it was going to be too expensive !

    I asked Graham since my last post what he had fitted to the car and to update the list of what Graham said that he has fitted, new;
    Welsh plugs, head, head bolts and head gasket, rings, water pump and radiator. (he didn't say yesterday, but I think he changed the thermostat as well)
    Second hand,; MAP sensor and turbo.
    The block, at the time of fitting the new head,was checked for true.

    It came to me to find why the engine management light comes on and he asked if I could also look at the boost setting on the wastegate.

    I was meant to be setting the boost pressure and the first thing I noticed, lifting the bonnet, was that bottle of water in the engine bay.

    It wasn't until I started cleaning the sensor's that I came across oil in the airway, I then looked for where that oil was coming from and found the engine breather was fuming excessively back into the air hose leading towards the turbo.
    I set about cleaning all that I could easily, using petrol and paint brush, a large bucket of hot water and detergent and lots of rags.

    After spending hours cleaning, I setup the boost gauge and took the car for a run, there was very little boost - about 5 PSI.
    Back and forwards quiet a few times, along the road for a couple of kilometers each way, adjusting the wastegate actuator link rod. Finally had the gauge showing a steady 17 PSI, but at that setting the temperature gauge went quickly up to hot and the motor cut its power straight away!
    So I topped up the water level at this stage and backed the boost off to 15 PSI steady, taking it for another run, the temperature stayed normal, but the engine management light still keeps coming on.
    So I returned home and took the oil filler cap off and it was fuming bad and it was still blowing water out of the radiator cap

    I rang Graham and told him that the breather was fuming bad and it was a bit pointless trying to fix the problems associated with the sensor while it was fuming badly, until now Graham was worrying about whether the new rings had seated.
    Getting on the phone to couple of mechanic mates of mine I managed to persuade Graham it was only the head gasket, but without fixing that first, it was not going to be easy finding which one was the crook sensor.
    The engine management light misbehaved less as the boost was adjusted towards the correct setting, but was still coming on.

    He has now taken the car home and given it a dose of Chemiweld.

    Sometimes doing a job for a friend can go very pear shaped !
    .

  9. #9
    aikendrum105 Guest
    I had a similar issue as far as the engine light / limp mode goes - it was the MAP sensor bolted to the top of the firewall on mine in the end. The first replacement I bought also failed due to hairline cracks on the pipe fitting - Britparts swapped it over and away she went. You can hook a multimeter up to the output of the MAP and check it's reading correctly while you drive - mine was dropping to zero volts intermittently.


    When I bought our L series off fleabay (the thread's on here a way down) it had also popped a rear welsh plug / been run for ages without anti-corrosive - rusted out the head gasket - and allowed boost into the cooling system / and vice-versa.

    Didn't damage the block mating surface, but badly corroded the head. I skimmed a *fair* amount off and gave it a go (cost me nothing but my time and the gasket/bolt set) - worked beautifully for months as I thrashed it around town and on the 300km round journey to the folks with laden trailer on - but then I pronounced it good and gave it to my wife - who blew the head gasket again within 40 mins driving the kids to the zoo. Go Figure. I think this time it's perforated the water jacket somewhere as I took far too much off the head really (you're not really sposed to take any off - some heat treatment they do gets cut off) - you can fill the evap bottle up, and it will dump all the water out the exhaust in a couple of hours if the right cylinder exhaust valve is open. Nasty

    I chased up replacement heads around the usual suspects - prices in the $800 and up for a 'it was working when we took it off' head.

    Found one in the UK on special for 100 UKP + shipping - about $350 in the end for a brand new oem unit with guides / seats etc. Bought new valves / followers and another full gasket set + head bolts and will be chucking it on in the next few weeks.

    I have a Faultmate MSV2 Extreme coded to the L-Series, Melbourne's marginally closer for you I guess

    There's an L-Series hippo at Pick-A-Part here in Kilsyth that is pretty much complete if you wanted a cheap-ish unknown condition engine / MAF / MAP etc to mix-match with. I was thinking of grabbing the turbo off it to try my hand at rebuilding.

    Hope that belatedly helps a little

    Cheers,


    Cheers,

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