Results 1 to 10 of 10

Thread: Freelander 1 tailgate won't open

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    Victoria point
    Posts
    49
    Total Downloaded
    0

    Freelander 1 tailgate won't open

    Lads,

    I know there is a lot of info about the operation of the rear tailgates of FL1's and yes I agree it was probably one of Land Rover's oddest designs (be honest... stupidest. That's why it was dumped with the FL2's) Anyway, mine is locked closed and I cannot get power to the solenoid to release the latch. I have a replacement latch and switch assembly, but as I can't open the door, I can't get to the latch screws. I have disassembled pretty much the whole door and any panels nearby. I have tried putting 12V directly to the solenoid, I have tried to release the latch with a coat hanger and I've tried access thru the rear tailgate. The window is out. Any ideas? Thanks heaps and I'm sorry for dissing the FL1 designers.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Nanny state UK...
    Posts
    3,253
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Hmmm... Bit of a 'catch' 22 going on there.

    FWIW - The latch is actually controlled via ECU. The switch in the handle tells the ECU that you want to open the door, it'll drop the rear window and then release the latch.

    You're going to have to try & find a way to mimmic this.

    There is a self-test diags mode which will activate this but you're going to have to have everything connected up for it to work, though there is no harm in trying. I can't remember the sequence off-hand but I'll do a quick search and see if I can find it...

    M

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Nanny state UK...
    Posts
    3,253
    Total Downloaded
    0

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Location
    Hunter Valley
    Posts
    962
    Total Downloaded
    0
    I have had this happen when the tailgate window motor stops working.

    Try disconnecting the battery, wait a 5 minutes and reconnect. This will cause the ECU to lose it memory of where the tail gate window is and in normal operation the window will lower. But if the window motor is u/s the window will remain up but the ecu will think its down and will allow you open the door.

    Usually you can remove the cover off the window motor and blow out the carbon and they will work again.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    Victoria point
    Posts
    49
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Thanks lads. The window has been removed. I did this to access the solenoid in the first place. When I connect the new switch and operate it, I can hear and see the window mechanism do it's thing (drop a cm etc) but the solenoid doesn't operate. Camel_Landy is right, it's a perfect Catch 22, I have to replace the solenoid but can't access it because the door is closed and the screws for the solenoid are inside the door wall. When I finally open it (and I will!) I'll edumacate ya'all. Cheers.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    Victoria point
    Posts
    49
    Total Downloaded
    0
    The latest... I was able to open the door by removing all electrical plugs from the rear latch mechanism and sticking two wires connected to 12VDC up the socket for the release solenoid. She opened a treat. Now to replace all the broken bits and cross my fingers the sequence works. Cheers

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Nanny state UK...
    Posts
    3,253
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Good luck...

    M

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    Victoria point
    Posts
    49
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Okay, I got it all back together but now the lock locking computer and immobilizer system is all a mess. Eg: the rear door doesn't open but the window lowers to allow opening clearance, the main doors do not lock and unlock with the FOB, the car will not start after being shutdown unless you operate the unlock button on the FOB, and so on and on... My questions are: do I need to reprogram the ECU for the doors/immobilizer and if so, is there a published method? Thanks in advance. Cheers.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Nanny state UK...
    Posts
    3,253
    Total Downloaded
    0
    AFAIK, the only re-programming needed is for new FOBs... Which it doesn't need as it recognises the FOB.

    It could be something as simple as the system getting its knickers in a twist. As a first port of call, just try disconnecting & re-connecting the battery. Then, if that doesn't work, use the self-test I mentioned before to make sure the ECU can talk to everything (the 2x things in mind are the dropping of the rear window & releasing the latch on the rear door).

    HTH

    M

  10. #10
    tom@intersoft.net.au Guest

    Which 2 wires did you connect to 12V?

    Hi Disco58,

    Which 2 wires did you connect to 12V to open the door?

    TIA

    Tom

    Quote Originally Posted by Disco58 View Post
    The latest... I was able to open the door by removing all electrical plugs from the rear latch mechanism and sticking two wires connected to 12VDC up the socket for the release solenoid. She opened a treat. Now to replace all the broken bits and cross my fingers the sequence works. Cheers

Bookmarks

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Search AULRO.com ONLY!
Search All the Web!