Thread: Freelander 1 - drive train

Those parts were available from the usual parts suppliers here and in the UK. Unfortunately it has been 14 years since I had to rebuild my drivetrain so not so sure now.

Bearings should not be an issue. Why do you need a new rear tailshaft? The rear section is rebuildable like any propshaft - just get the UJs.

The front CV - not sure about - I never had an issue with mine.

VCU - for a while you could buy refurbished ones here but not seen them advertised for a while but I haven't been looking. The issue with a 98 Freelander is that the front diff ratio (in the IRD) is too different from that in the rear diff so it kills the VCU very quickly. By 180,000km my 97 Freelander had gone through 3 VCUs and on the last it killed the IRD. I bought a used IRD and VCU from a very low Km 2002 TD4 from TR Spares in SA. By the time the TD4s came around the diff ratio aspect had been fixed and they no longer systematically killed VCUs and then in turn kill IRDs. The other advantage of these later IRDs is that revs at 100kph is reduced from just over 3000rpm to around 2750rpm.

How is your VCU damper - they need to be considered but if getting a second hand VCU you will most likely get the damper as well.

So if you still have the original IRD you will still be going through VCUs regularly.

I would be checking the wreckers for a low KM late model FL1 TD4 drivetrain and putting that in and investigate what IRD you have.

If Woko is still around he can probably tell you better than I where to get the bits you want.

Now if you dont want to 4wd the car and just drive around town then I would not worry about the rear drive. They work fine in front wheel drive only.

Garry

The front half of the prop shaft which will have the cv joint in it is TVB000090. They are on ebay for $180

Hi Garry & Woko,

Thanks for your replies - the Freelander 1 is certainly a learning curve for me.. (At the risk of getting shot down - the rear drive train seems to be a stupid design).

My front CV is definately shot - so I will be ordering one of those (thanks Woko).

My centre bearings are also shot - so I will be ordered a pair of those.

I suspect that the VCU is stuffed also (I will check how tight it is). The vehicle's history is completely unknown to me - all I know is that it has 292,000km on it and the rear drive train was uninstalled already.

I will update my other thread with all the other things I have been up to..

Thanks again,
GG.

1.8 litre petrol Freelanders are worth nothing and I mean nothing as complete vehicles - certainly worth more as parts.

To get drive train parts it may be worth buying a complete 1.8 litre vehicle taking what you want and dumping what is left.

It a shame LR stuffed up the front diff ratios and the cooling system of the 1.8s which killed the reputation of the Freelander. The diesels are great and were an extremely comfortable vehicle - they were the first Land rovers with Hill Descent, full four channel ABS and full four channel traction control.

Also check the little boot in the floor of the rear cargo area. There is a design issue with the back door and if you park the car downhill in the rain, the back door fills with water and overflows into the cargo area and into the little boot - so drill some holes in the bottom to let the water out - in my 8 years of FL1 ownership I never was able to sort this as it is not a rubber seal issue.

Also learn how to work the back window and how to reset it - particularly from the rear door key hole. Also the emergency door unlock, un mobilise procedure with the front door lock - is extremely tiresome.

On that get a handbook and a Haynes workshop manual - if I remember there is a Rave CD that is helpful as well.

Good luck

Originally Posted by garrycol

1.8 litre petrol Freelanders are worth nothing and I mean nothing as complete vehicles - certainly worth more as parts.

To get drive train parts it may be worth buying a complete 1.8 litre vehicle taking what you want and dumping what is left.

It a shame LR stuffed up the front diff ratios and the cooling system of the 1.8s which killed the reputation of the Freelander. The diesels are great and were an extremely comfortable vehicle - they were the first Land rovers with Hill Descent, full four channel ABS and full four channel traction control.

Also check the little boot in the floor of the rear cargo area. There is a design issue with the back door and if you park the car downhill in the rain, the back door fills with water and overflows into the cargo area and into the little boot - so drill some holes in the bottom to let the water out - in my 8 years of FL1 ownership I never was able to sort this as it is not a rubber seal issue.

Also learn how to work the back window and how to reset it - particularly from the rear door key hole. Also the emergency door unlock, un mobilise procedure with the front door lock - is extremely tiresome.

On that get a handbook and a Haynes workshop manual - if I remember there is a Rave CD that is helpful as well.

Good luck

Thread hijack.

Hi Garrycol:, a friend of mine has a freebie 1 td4 2002? And the rear window stopped going down, so he can't open the tailgate. What is the procedure to reset it plz? Or does he have to disconnect the battery everytime? TIA

Cheers Rod

Originally Posted by 67hardtop

What is the procedure to reset it plz? Or does he have to disconnect the battery everytime? TIA

Cheers Rod

Hi Rod - I cannot remember it has been so long ago - you will need to look in the handbook or the RAVE - I am sure a google search will through up something.

Originally Posted by garrycol

Hi Rod - I cannot remember it has been so long ago - you will need to look in the handbook or the RAVE - I am sure a google search will through up something.

Ok thanks. Ive goooooogled it. Still gotta disconnect the battery. Ill tell him cheers

Has he tried lowering the window with the key in the rear door key lock?

Or Freelander 1 Tailgate Window Problems << FreelanderSpecialist.com