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Thread: Freelander 1 Bearmach Lift Kit

  1. #31
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
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    Dandenong Ranges - Victoria
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    Here is another update on the trials and tribulations of fitting the (just bolts on) 50mm lift kit from Bearmach.
    Decided to go look for the source of the new noises that have become apparent since fitting the lift kit. Grinding/resonant/exhaust noise under load in low gears and 'clank bang' when going over speed humps, steps and bumps.

    Found that yet again the kit and design has a lot of problems not described or probably even known by Bearmach (as they just buy this in from a contractor).

    When you lift the suspension the anti-roll bar is rotated by whatever 50mm causes and comes into contact with the exhaust.


    The links are now about 30mm too long, I have just fitted some temporary brackets to see how it all goes, then will replace or shorten the links.


    Bah, Humbug!

    Got an email replay from Bearmacj recently after much prompting.
    Hi Stephen,

    Regarding the points you have raised with this kit I now have some answers for you.
    Our accessory catalogue will be amended to say cutting of the bodywork is required instead of minor bending! Also the manufacturer of the plates and studs has been dropped as a preffered supplier and a tender for a new supplier has been issued,this means we are looking for better quality and finish from a couple of different companies. The instructions in the kit are going to be amended also with the cutting issue. We are also looking into the fuel pipe issue,which hopefully will be resolved asap.
    Thank you for bringing these points to our attention as Bearmach wish to be regarded as a quality assured supplier and obviously the kit in question has failed to come up to this mark.Our QC dept has been made aware of this also and future errors will not be tolerated within the company.
    Best regards
    Jason


    No mention of what they intend to do about selling goods that are not fit for purpose.

    I uploaded images to the gallery but for some reason I can't get them to stay visible, they pop up during preview then vanish. Will revisit and try and post later.
    Last edited by SuperMono; 24th December 2008 at 03:19 PM. Reason: Thumbnails wouldn't work.

  2. #32
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Redland Bay QLD
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    Interesting. The sway bar issue was one of my biggest concerns when designing the FL2 lift kit for djhampson. Let me know how it goes. My thoughts were to sleeve and reweld them, but there may be other options.

    cheers!

  3. #33
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
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    Dandenong Ranges - Victoria
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    I'll try on the images again.



    My thoughts are to have a look down at the wreckers and see if anything close jumps out. Probably end up with the cut, sleeve and weld approach in the end.
    At the moment I have just knocked up some farmers brackets that rotate the bar up to clear the exhaust. Seems to be OK and all of the noise has gone, next week I will be doing a couple of day runs and after that will look at something more permanent.

    A quick question: Anyone run their Freebie without the front bar fitted?
    Obviously will detract from on road handling, perhaps a little loose, but should be an improvement for off road work.

  4. #34
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    May 2007
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    Redland Bay QLD
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    I don't think I would risk running it minus front sway bar. It may not make much difference to handling, but it makes a world of difference to an insurance assessor.

    I think a better sized item, or a cut and sleeve is probably best.

    Cheers!

    EDIT: not cool. I had to cut my sump armour short because the sway bar was too low and rattled on the plate. The 1.8 exhaust is smaller and i had heaps of clearance. I should just have bought more lift :P.

  5. #35
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
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    Baldivis, WA
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    Quote Originally Posted by beforethevision View Post
    I don't think I would risk running it minus front sway bar. It may not make much difference to handling, but it makes a world of difference to an insurance assessor.

    I think a better sized item, or a cut and sleeve is probably best.

    Cheers!

    EDIT: not cool. I had to cut my sump armour short because the sway bar was too low and rattled on the plate. The 1.8 exhaust is smaller and i had heaps of clearance. I should just have bought more lift :P.
    How much more lift can you get?

  6. #36
    Join Date
    May 2007
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    Redland Bay QLD
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    Before losing a CV? supposedly around 2" spacer and 1" spring.

    Between spacers, springs and tyres you can get a FL 4" further from the ground. I cant imagine the wear and tear on drive train components tho.

    Cheers!

  7. #37
    pentan Guest

    Timing belt for 2001 6cyl petrol

    Hi Supermono
    I have just come over to Perth and in need of a service and timing belt change.
    can you recommend a reasonably priced mechanic.
    I am in Freo at the moment.

    Thanks
    Pentan

  8. #38
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
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    Dandenong Ranges - Victoria
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    Sure, but you will need to ship the Freebie back to Melbourne to be in the same place as my recommended mechanic.

    Good reminder to update my profile though (Location = Victoria).

  9. #39
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
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    Canberra
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    I thought the 6 cyl had a timing chain that does not need changing unless it is rooted.

    Garry
    REMLR 243

    2007 Range Rover Sport TDV6
    1977 FC 101
    1976 Jaguar XJ12C
    1973 Haflinger AP700
    1971 Jaguar V12 E-Type Series 3 Roadster
    1957 Series 1 88"
    1957 Series 1 88" Station Wagon

  10. #40
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    Fremantle
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    So, your drop-links only need extending because of the exhaust interference, or is that something which had to be done anyway?
    Is there a measurement I can make to check whether the exhaust will be affected on a td4? I guess I could take off my drop-links and see how far the ends can fall before anything is contacted...

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