Thread: Turbo Mazda Freelander!

Looks interesting!

What torque does the motor produce? i can kinda recall the gearbox (pg1) taking no more than 240nm? I looked at the 6A13 (V6TT) but it was going to splinter the gearbox.

Good luck!

Originally Posted by JesusFreak

The Intercooler

Why not just use a Diesel Freelander Intercooler and fittings - will fit and saves a lot of mucking around.

Garry

Hey again guys, I left my camera home, so I will update pics tomorrow...

Before I begin, cheers for the input on the cooler...

CamelLandy... I thought that looked like your avatar...where did you get the bar made?? And the Spotlights, I love that pod??? A fine mesh insert in front of the cooler for offroad should hopefully resolve the mud issue...the positive presure on the intake side only applys once the revs are up enough too spool the turbo, before this you still run a vaccum, however any damage to the intercooler or pipework would show up as an immediate drop in boost...so if I lose boost, I'll steer clear of rivers or large puddles

BeforeTheVision... the engine puts out 233Nm of torque and 100kW in stock form...it may run a bit harder than this due to the improved intake & exhaust I'm fitting, but shouldn't be enough to break the 'box...I'll have to be a little careful about playing with the boost though...

Garrycol... Yeah, a TD cooler would have been easier, bur it's too late now...also, I think the stock TD cooler would have been far more restrictive than the 1000cfm of the unit I've fitted...another thought for serious off-roaders would be a top-mount unit from a WRX or Liberty RS with a bonnet scoop...there's plenty of room on top of the engine, I've just never been a huge fan of scoops on 4x4s

Progress report...

We pulled the engine/gearbox/transfer case from the freeby and seperated the engine from the bellhousing...at this point we realised we had a problem, as the diameter F2T clutch and flywheel were wide for the bellhousing, so we had to head back to the wreckers to exchange them for a non-turbo F2 unit which is only 2mm larger than the LR item, meaning the LR clutch plate will work fine... we also discovered that the Freebys clutch was on it's last legs, so we picked up a new kit from repco...clearance price $388.00 reg price $988.00, Landrover wanted $420 fo a clutch plate which we would have done had the repco item not been on clearance...the plate is probably the only thing we are using, so if anyone wants some new bits for a freelander clutch, let me know...

Next problem, an input shaft bearing is needed to centre the gearbox with the engine...due to the imperial ID and the metric OD required, it's impossible to get a pre-fab bearing, so it was off to a machine shop to have a brass bushing made...the dimensions are OD-35mm, ID-19mm, Thickness-10mm...

Still at the machine shop, the F2 flywheel, while being the correct diameter, is 10mm too thick so that had to be machined down to fit...I should have it back tommorrow...

I also removed the rocker cover, and it's in being cleaned ready to be powdercoated...

The next lot of major work will be starting monday week when my mate is back from the mines again...until then, I have a mazda wiring harness too decipher and a rockercover to detail...

As i mentioned, I will put the pics up in a fresh post tomorrow...

Later Peeps

Originally Posted by JesusFreak

CamelLandy... I thought that looked like your avatar...where did you get the bar made?? And the Spotlights, I love that pod???

It was all made by Safety Devices for the 1998 Camel Trophy.

The bar is bolted, onto a couple of brackets which go through through the bumper, onto the chassis behind. It's then also bolted onto the sub-frame underneath. Once in place, it then acts as the mounting point for the 2x piece sump guard.

The pod is made from fibreglass and is bolted to the roof and the front of the roofrack. The roofrack is then bolted through the roof, into the internal roll cage. For the event, they were fitted with recovery points on the roof too, using the bolts which fix to the cage!!

The pod looks really cool but is a PITA to use... As soon as you turn the lights on, all you get is glare where it lights up the dashboard & bonnet too!!

M

Fair enough... I was thinking about mounting a pair of spots to the front Roof rack points...do you think they would glare like the pod does or is that far enough back down the roof??

Originally Posted by JesusFreak

Fair enough... I was thinking about mounting a pair of spots to the front Roof rack points...do you think they would glare like the pod does or is that far enough back down the roof??

Depends on how far back you could mount them.

Personally, I think you might be better off with either a pair of spots on the bumper or even a bonnet mounted pod.

M

Don't think I could sell my wife on the bonnet pod idea...so I guess I'll test them on the roof & if they don't work, I'll wait till I get the nudge bar sorted...

Ok...as promised here are the next lot of pics...

The Radiator gone, and the AC condenser & compressor moved out of the way...


The engine out...


The 2 Flywheels...Mmmm.... yummy.... water and oil


The difference in thickness...


Oh, while the car's off the road, we decided to retrim the worn out interior...here's the first door panel... from this...


To this...


The seats and all door trims will be re-done...the blessings of being married to an upholsterer

I will be picking up the flywheel on monday and will update with pics then...