Thread: Will not start. Oponions please!!

Hey guys!

Car had a minor service today and had the gasket between the inlet manifold and the crossover pipe changed (small job). According to the mechanic it had been starting perfectly all day till i arrived.

The only way we could get it started when cold was if we sprayed a tiny bit of AeroStart into the inlet but would not start again if i didnt allow it to reach operating temp.... Though when i do start it with the AeroStart spray and let it warm up to operating temp i can turn it off and start it back up no problem at all, time after time.

So basically when cold the only way to start it is with the spray but when the motor is left running till it reaches operating temp it can be turned off and started with no problem at all.

I am guessing it is the glow plugs not heating when cold starting... Would this be the most probable cause?

It is a 1998 2.0turbo diesel and has done a little over 300,000km the engine is a little tired blows a tiny bit of smoke but still goes hard and strong. My worst thoughts are it has lost compression so will only start when the rings have warmed up and expanded, but i really hope this is not the case.

I have spent over $1000 in the past week on this car and really need to know what this could be as i want to do it myself. I am quite mechanically minded (i used to repair mechanic workshop equipment for a job before i lost my job due to the recession) and have a copy of the Haynes Service manual as well as the RAVE Land rover Free Lander workshop CD.

PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE somebody give me an opinion or an idea of where to start or what to do. I can't afford much at the moment and have a baby due soon but no car so i don't want to throw money at the "experts" who will charge me an arm leg and a kidney to diagnose the car.

Thank You,
Martin.

It does sound like the glow-plugs...

First thing to check would be the circuit to the plugs themselves. With all of the fun & games you've had recently, it wouldn't surprise me to find that they have managed to become disconnected.

However, if you need to replace the plugs, 1, 2 & 3 are a doddle... No.4 is a sod as it's tucked behind the fuel pump! The best way of replacing No.4 is to wait until you do the cam belts... It will start with only 3x glow plugs but it is a bit of an effort!!

HTH

M

Duplicate thread...

Follow the story here...

M

Id say a combo of glow plugs, loss of compression, slow starter and perhaps a lazy battery. The engines starting to get on a bit and the addition of the loss of its glow plugs is the straw that broke the camels back.

even without the glow plugs if you crank it enough it should start.

There is one other potential problem which is the fuel pump holding at the no fuel position untill the RPMS come up above cranking speed but since the engine starts easily once its warmed up its not likely to be that.

In Australia an L series will start without glow plugs except in extreme cold alpine regions.

Was the fuel system worked on when the car was worked on?? When I last changed my fuel filter I just cracked the drain on the fuel filter and pumped it up until fuel ran out - wrong.

The car started and ran OK but often would not start when cold - problem there was still air in the system - the particular bleeding process for the L series must be followed.

It is as follows:

To bleed prime the system - open valve at top of filter and pump bulb until fuel free of air comes out the filter valve. Keeping the bulb squeezed close filter valve. TURN ON IGNITION and pump the fuel bulb until the bulb is hard. Stop pumping and turn off the ignition. Push accelerator to the floor and then attempt to start as normal - engine will take longer to start - run at a fast idle for a minute to purge any remaining air. If the engine still runs rough or is hard to start there may still be air in the system - repeat purge bleed process.

On an other issue, the L series is normally started without any accelerator. When there is difficulty starting sometimes pushing the accelerator to the floor is the solution - tells the ECU that there is a problem and please start me. Partial throttle settings are a no no.

Garry

See my post in the link.

Garry

Threads merged.

Don't post the same topic in multiple areas.

The fuel system was worked on the mechanic had replaced the fuel return lines as he said they where in a bad state. I'm going to try priming and bleeding the system now and ill get the meter out and check the glow plug relay. If this doesnt work it's back to the drawing board.... or i'll come back and ask you boys again

Thanks (hopefully this works)