Thread: Freelander 2 Access

If you've got a door open /unlocked then the tailgate should be unlocked too.

If not try holding the buttons on the dash.

Edit

Ok I just tried it with ours.

If the doors are locked then the tailgate doesn't open by holding the dash buttons.

But how did the NRMA open the car?

When I opened the door from the inside when it was locked with the remote the alarm went off (horn beeping) and I believe the only way to cancel that is with the remote.

So what did they do?

It's possible the tailgate microswitch is playing up, in which case it can only be opened with the remote. Whether the car unlocked or not.

Mine's in this state, just haven't got around to fixing it. The fix is here.

Freel2.com - View topic - How to fix the tailgate switch

If Roger's is also playing up, that would explain why the car's unlocked but the tailgate won't open.

Regards
Max P

Still haven't found the key - painting the WIR had to take priority then we had friends drop in for afternoon tea.

Anyway although doors are open, unfortunately the car is still in a locked state. NRMA accessed by springing the top of the drivers door and undoing from inside with use of a long hooked rod. All doors could then be opened except the tailgate which, as you'd know, doesn't have an internal handle. The alarm did go off but was silenced by removing the horn relay from the fuse/relay box under the bonnet. In order to save the battery charge. I was also able to turn the hazard lights off by using the hazard switch on the dash.

Tailgate has not given any trouble, with the exception of the current owner initiated problem, so I don't think the micro switch is at fault Max. Something to be aware off to watch out for in the future.

I'm on a pretty steep learning curve with the Freelander, especially with all the 'bells & whistles' that come with the HSE - a big change from a Defender and Disco. but enjoying it.

Roger you're a 25min drive from my place.

If you can't find the remote fob, I would be able to program "new" ones to your car. The problem is you need two remotes to be programmed it's not possible to just program a single one. The cheapest new complete remotes i've seen at GBP 80 each from the UK and then you have to wait for them to be shipped...

I've not checked the prices from LR here in Australia for the remotes, but I suspect they'll be more than that.

Or if you can find second hand remotes it would also be possible.

It might also be possible to "jump" the tailgate open by making the appropriate connection from one of the junction boxes. I'd have to spend a little time going through the wiring diagrams to figure that one out.

Thanks for the tip about the purchase and offer of programming of the new key fobs. Is this done with a Nanocom or do you have some other programming device? I've been told by SWMBO that we are definitely getting a second key fob once this issue is sorted out, or maybe a couple in order to sort this issue out and get back on the road.

After dinner I tackled the tailgate lining in earnest and managed to get it almost completely off, all except for the section around the actual lock. As Max said removal of the lining doesn't reveal much as no levers or rods to jiggle in these electrical monsters. However there are three wires in the lock multiplug but no colour coding - all three are black.
I can disconnect this multiplug and was wondering if it would be possible to apply a 12v supply directly to the lock side of the connector and if so, which terminals to use for +ve and -ve?

Pin 1 = Tailgate Release
Pin 2 = Earth
Pin 3 = Door Lock Tailgate

The "Door Lock Tailgate" runs from the Central Junction Box via a Relay which is also to control the lock on the fuel flap.

The Tailgate Release runs directly from the Central Junction Box

I guess you need to unlock the tailgate first rather than release it?

But 12V on either would be my guess. Maybe the lock first, then the release.

I would not want to put 12V on the plug as that will introduce power to the Central Junction Box and Central Electronics Module which is inside the CJB.

I'd unplug it and put the 12V & earth directly on the pins at the tailgate motor. So unplug the white connector.

Thanks again Cambo - the pinout information was spot on.
Problem solved - Tailgate open & Key found

I went straight to the earth & release pins (2 & 1) because I reasoned that as all the other doors, although open were still in the locked state so I should keep the tailgate in the same state so all were 'in sync'. However, after a number of unsuccessful attempts with small alligator clips and because the pins were quite small & recessed considerably, the only way I could contact them positively was to make a two point probe with a length of two core wire, a couple of nails, some solder, a bit of insulation tape and a couple of pieces of heatshrink, which worked like a dream - see pic below - and might now find a home in the special tools bin.

I'll now be ordering a second key from UK and will contact you, Cambo to take you up on your kind offer to program it.

Once again the AULRO 'community' has excelled itself and saved me some money.

Crisis averted!