Contact MCHitch. He does custom fabricated work... he modified my Rapid Hitch to take his gear and a 50mm ball making it much more useable...
I wondered if one of these would work as well - if allowable in Australia..
![]()
Just looked at the McHitch option... it would solve the bumper bar contact problem but if mounted where the existing one is the height of trailer problem remains... if I get the cut box section back, and U tube welded on, option it would solve everything but I don't know yet who would be willing to do it and how I get it certified afterwards.
It would cost about $225 for hitch plus engineering so all up my towbar would be in the $2300- $2400 vicinity and multiple trips to various places to resolve. What an expensive mistake. I hope anyone considering the LandRover bar for the Freelander reads this and avoids it like the plague.
Contact MCHitch. He does custom fabricated work... he modified my Rapid Hitch to take his gear and a 50mm ball making it much more useable...
I wondered if one of these would work as well - if allowable in Australia..
![]()
You might also find that MCHitch could make the Pin in a custom height version...![]()
The OP has a very common 50mm tow hitch on their trailer. If the towbar design results in the hitch coming too close to the bumper bar under articulation, then it is not fit for towing a trailer, which is it's purpose.
I would grind off the two vertical risers on the trailer and weld on a 1/2"plate, drilled and tapped to accept 1/2" bolts. My local trailer shop sells pre-made plate for this purpose, but I found it cheaper to make it myself, even after buying the drill bit and tap.
Aaron
Except Aaron - that in it's correct position the tow bar does NOT make contact with the vehicles body..
Only when inverted (which only specific tongues are rated to do) does it contact the body...
The big issue is Freelander 2 bars are rated at 2,000kg and 150kg Ball weight..
OP is 1,750 ish and 200kg ball weight..
So he's restricted to a maximum speed of 100km/h (LR requirement) and his GVM is reduced 200kg.
Even the Hayman Reese (which I agree would be better with its 50mm receiver) is restricted to Only 150kg ball weight.
Put Simply: the boat and trailer exceeds the vehicles capability.
Yeah there's a couple of issues to unpack here.... Isn't the recommendation that you have 10% towball weight? So if you did go near a 2 tonne weight then you couldn't use the 150 tongue that LR supply.
I'm a bit screwed because I bought this car with the intention of using it to tow the boat, particularly I thought the 4wd on dodgy ramps would be a big benefit. Many posters I read before buying said the Freelander2 was a great tow vehicle. My boat is not a very big boat compared to many at the ramp.
But now I'm buggered if I can see a happy way forward, and I fear that Tombie is correct... my car can't tow my boat. And yet I love the car and can't imagine parting with it.
To reduce ball weight I could get the axle moved forward but that might risk turning the currently excellent tow trailer into a swaying pest.
All this has already buggered a holiday plan we had, (which is why I have time to post these questions... ) but I could live with that if there is eventually a fix.
Don't get the OEM towbar kit folks.
For your application I'd be checking with HR...
Their 50mm receiver should be ok... and the cost likely around the same as all the mods at $550.
Just flick the old unit up for sale...
You can tow up to 200kg but the vehicle downrates its GVM and LR recommend max of 100km/h.
I believe a conversation with HR is most appropriate at this point.
Option B - fit a lift kit to the car![]()
Option C - lower the boat trailer
Fix the trailer....no trailer towed by car needs to be engineered.......just need to pass a roadworthy
| Search AULRO.com ONLY! |
Search All the Web! |
|---|
|
|
|
Bookmarks