Thread: FL2 mod thoughts...

Originally Posted by inside

Anyone got any figures on suspension travel up and down from rest?

On lifting there is 25mm or 1 inch lift springs available. If you couple this with increased tyre height it is possible to get 2 inches above standard or ground clearance of around 260mm. For comparison Defender is 315mm and D3 240mm (air suspension)

For touring roof limit is 75kg including racks. The only after market racks I can find have a limit of 60kg including racks. Does anyone know if the factory rails and bars can support the factory limit? I would like to get 60kg up there.

I suppose from-rest figures could be measured, but to give a guide its heaps at the rear, and not much at the front. The springs are waay too expensive, and at the front the downward travel would be tiny!

I have almost designed a 30-35mm solid lift for the FL2, raising the lot. We shall see how it goes. It does however require serious modification of the swaybar linkage at the front. (ie, remove, get shortened)

DJHampson and I are fabricating our own roof rails. 40x40x1.6mm framing. As for weight, if the bracketry is strong, i would have thought itd be fine.

cheers!

OK, here's some thoughts for you base on the ones we use.

Originally Posted by beforethevision

Armour

1. The steel sump armour that comes stock is for women only. The Mantec one is crazy expensive but nicely done. The mountings are not in plane (sadly), and will make replacement a little tricky. That being said the frame around the area IS in plane, and when covered would not leave any gaps.

2. The front recovery point is serious. If it came away from the vehicle, I suspect so would the front suspension.

3. The plastic below the bottom radiator grille does not last long offroad. DJHampsons' is mangled and needs a heavy duty aluminium replacement.

4. The rear diff is asking for a puncture. Considering this also houses the front/rear electronic control, it needs armour. Not a big piece, but perhaps a 12" x 8" x 1/4" panel.

5. Fuel tanks need similar love, but less serious.

We have the Mantec kit fitted to our cars. We fit the front sump guard as well as the rear tank guard as these appear to take most of the punishment. If you use the rear tank guard, I think that might just about offer the protection you're after for the rear diff... It's still exposed but the guard does help deflect.

The recovery points are rated to 1.5 times the vehicle weight...

I'd also add that the sills take a bit of a pounding and could probably do with something (like the FL1).

Originally Posted by beforethevision

Wheels

9. FL1 and FL2 wheels DO NOT FIT.

10. FL2 is 5x108 with about 35 positive offset. (AFAIK)

11. Volvo wheels of most varieties should fit :P However, for a wider track 240, 740, 760, 780, 940, 960 models steel wheels look to be the goods.

12. 16" wheels look to clear the front brakes. The rear is easy, but the front will not fit 15".

13. Up to around 31" tyres should fit based on arch size. THIS HAS NOT BEEN TESTED HOWEVER. Measurements suggest they will fit, but at full lock or full spring compression has not been confirmed.

Correct... There is no interchange between FL1 & FL2. However, as you have already found out, the Volvo ones should fit (You might want to compare with other Ford/PAG options... )

As for lifts/oversize tyres... Pass.

HTH

M

I did some more travel over the holiday period and had mud half way up the doors which eventually stopped my forward travel. Luckily though I reversed out fairly easily although this allows the bracket for the fuel tank and the fuel tank itself to act like a shovel jamming mud between the two and bending the bracket down and fuel tank up. It seems if I keep using the vehicle like I do I'll end up paying big dollars for the guard or a new fuel tank and bracket.