Yup, Grimace is on the money.Quote:
Originally Posted by Psimpson7
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Yup, Grimace is on the money.Quote:
Originally Posted by Psimpson7
Went away and had a think about it and after reading Petes reply it makes sense to me now and what I was thinking wouldn't work. If it had been explianed like that I wouldn't have started the debate. I never said I was right but it makes sense since you put it that way :( Who's the idiot now :mad:Quote:
Originally Posted by Psimpson7
Trav
It's ok, I had an incling you were confusing yourself all along. No one is an idiot.
Hey all
The whole reasoning behind this is to state that cranked arms do change the angle of the uni,s and shaft in a negative direction. Trav, corrected swivels only change the steering geometry which Grimace pointed out. My point is why fit cranked arms when it is going to create problems due to increased uni angles. The point of the photos is to show that you can get away with a 4" lift and retain happy uni angles etc with standard radius arms. I would say anything over 4" you would need cranked arms etc to roll the diff back to help the panhard and spring mount etc. But you would need a flash front shaft with a double cardan joint etc and a modified crossmember.
Sorry to go on a bit but people keep saying cranked arms dont change the Uni angle. well yes it does. Unfortunately in a negative way.
Justin
Hi all,
Following this thread with interest.
Why don't you consider a D2 front shaft? With the t/c flange suit, its a bolt in solution to uni problems.
The pic shows my front flex: Nothing exotic, just Landcrusher Bilsteins, Haultech holey bushes, slotted swivels, & the D2 shaft.
Regards
Max P
Just break it down into simple terms.
What happens?
As you increase the height between the diff housing and chassis with a fixed point of rotation you rotate the diff housing in an arc. In the case of the front diff it rotates the spring mounts forward and the pinion upward. It also rotates your set castor angle from a positive towards zero and sometimes into the negative.
To make your car steer comfortably at speed, ie not skittish, you need a positive castor angle, so you need some way of returning this.
Driveline angles work best with minimum deflection from zero degrees and matched(or as close to) angles on both uni's.
Up to a certain point, correcting just the swivels will return castor with acceptable driveline angle.
Beyond that point, the diff housing needs to be rotated back to align the spring and rod mounts, or alternatively these could be cut and rewelded.
I think the arguement from Justin is, why go for cranked arms and place increased deflection on the pinion end universal.
Depending on the application, both have their merit. I prefer the swivel method, but in saying that, in larger lifts, the cranked arms may help bring the 2 deflections closer together, rather than a small one at the pinion end and a large one at the gearbox end, thus possibly relieving driveline vibration.
CC
Grimace, wasn't confusing myself it was more of a misunderstanding of the concept of castor correction that's all so it all now makes sense :). I'm no oxford schollar but I'm not a dumb **** either :mad::mad:
I have a simple sollution, don't overlift your Land Rover problem solved :)
Trav
Thats making the assumption that a standard propshaft is being used. As Tusker has stated, you can also run a Disco2 shaft with a Double cardin joint at the transfer end, which has an ideal setup of just off no angle from the pinion and whats required at the transfercase. This does away with the need to produce equal angles at both ends of the tailshaft.Quote:
Originally Posted by Col.Coleman
Given that the discussion was centered around rangies and castor correction, no double cardan is a given. Fitting one, or a D2 shaft would only then be to fix a created problem.Quote:
Originally Posted by Slunnie
A second arguement would also be, on a budget, slotting the balls is cheaper than buying cranked arms and a double cardan and new shaft.
I have a double cardan front shaft from a stage 1 laying around to go into mine:D
CC
CC the discussion according to the first post is about castor correction, slotted balls, cranked arms and pinion heights, angles and clearances. Everything in the thread is about created problems from lifts which is a reality of modifications and like slotted balls or cranked arms, DC joints are part of the fix and also there is no mention of budgets. :DQuote:
Originally Posted by Col.Coleman
BTW those stage 1 DC joints are good ones!