Castor correction & uni's

I will have to take some photos of my pinion angles. Stock and current. You will see the standard uni angles on a range rover are pretty much perfectly setup for a DC style shaft running in phase.

Also if you don't have to modify the standard cross member then your not getting much out of the suspension. I have had to remove over 2 inches of meat from my round crossmember just to clear the drive shaft on full droop.
The cranked arms make about 2mm of difference at the crossmember (fug all really). The minute difference to the running angle at the tcase end of the shaft is negligable (I would be interested to check the angles aswell to see how much it is changed/affected, my guess would be a total of 1.36 degrees:) ).

At the end of the day, I love my cranked arms and personally would never do it differently!

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Originally Posted by Slunnie

Everything in the thread is about created problems from lifts which is a reality of modifications and like slotted balls or cranked arms, DC joints are part of the fix and also there is no mention of budgets. :D

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Spot on dude!

Cranked arms are relatively cheap IMHO (can get em out of the states for the same cost of slotted swivels). In my case they were more expensive (about 1100 :eek:), mine are one piece construction and engineered.

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CC the discussion according to the first post is about castor correction, slotted balls, cranked arms and pinion heights, angles and clearances. Everything in the thread is about created problems from lifts which is a reality of modifications and like slotted balls or cranked arms, DC joints are part of the fix and also there is no mention of budgets.

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Thats it

I'm starting to go nuts with my rangie.. has 4" lift. Put 3 degree caster bushes in the front arms (GQ diff so can't rotate swivels). Rangie sits on the road great now. But the bushes caused too much driveshaft angle at the transfer. Spent 800 bucks on new driveshafts with larger unis which hardly made a difference :eek:

Now I have to go down the road of DC shafts (not cheap)

Camo

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Originally Posted by Camo

Thats it

I'm starting to go nuts with my rangie.. has 4" lift. Put 3 degree caster bushes in the front arms (GQ diff so can't rotate swivels). Rangie sits on the road great now. But the bushes caused too much driveshaft angle at the transfer. Spent 800 bucks on new driveshafts with larger unis which hardly made a difference :eek:

Now I have to go down the road of DC shafts (not cheap)

Camo

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Camo, I want to have a look at your shaft angles sometime to assess where the vibes are coming from.

Larger unis won't change a thing, if there is a phasing issue between both unis you will get a vibration.

I would guess your new shaft is running in phase on the splines and that your differential pinion is pointing up towards the tcase output (not parralel). If this is the case you need to remove your front shaft and rotate the spilnes 45degrees out of phase (as per rover standard) to corect the misalignment in the uni angles.
You might have to fine tune it a spline or two to get it right but it is possible.

Also have a look at the transmission mounts as they flog out quickly when subjected to such vibrations.

I am keen to give you a hand and getting this sorted for you, as with new shafts (even non DC) and a 4" lift you should be able to enjoy smooth shafting :D

EDIT: Obviously if the uni at the differential end is dead flat, then phase changing wont make a difference and a DC shaft is the only answer. But thats is highly unlikely and you should get an improvement from doing the above.

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Originally Posted by Camo

Thats it

I'm starting to go nuts with my rangie.. has 4" lift. Put 3 degree caster bushes in the front arms (GQ diff so can't rotate swivels). Rangie sits on the road great now. But the bushes caused too much driveshaft angle at the transfer. Spent 800 bucks on new driveshafts with larger unis which hardly made a difference :eek:

Now I have to go down the road of DC shafts (not cheap)

Camo

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hey Camo
i carry a spare front dc shaft which has just been rebuilt and balanced at gibbs trucks very recently, if you want to put it in to see if it stops the vibes then at least you know it works before spending the money ,i am sure it will fit
cheers kelvin

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4" lift you should be able to enjoy smooth shafting

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LOL :D I like the sound of that

Will give you a call during the week to show you my shafts.. Keen to get this sorted..what ever it takes I guess

Cheers Grimace

Camo

Grimace,

Surprised you had to mod your round crossmember as they're not too bad, the square ones you would for a big lift because it's a bit more tucked up into the chassis.

This is why I steer away from big lifts myself, you're always chasing your tail and it can drive you mad costing a pretty packet at the end of it. But each to there own and not many people go through Rangies like I do (takes me a while to find the 'right' one).

Trav

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Originally Posted by aquarangie

Grimace,

Surprised you had to mod your round crossmember as they're not too bad, the square ones you would for a big lift because it's a bit more tucked up into the chassis.

Trav

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Yeah I didn't think I would need to remove that much (I only took 2" out of my square crossmember in previous rangies).

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Originally Posted by Grimace

Yeah I didn't think I would need to remove that much (I only took 2" out of my square crossmember in previous rangies).

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Ok class
I run a standard 85 model square crossmember and a 4" lift with standard wide yoke shaft. The shaft misses the crossmember by a couple of mm on full articulation. So I run 610mm full extension pin to pin shocks. You guys must be using bigger shocks or our RRC is a freak:cool: Although cranked arms would increase the down angle of the shaft I suppose. Is this why ??????

Justin

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Originally Posted by DRanged

Ok class
I run a standard 85 model square crossmember and a 4" lift with standard wide yoke shaft. The shaft misses the crossmember by a couple of mm on full articulation. So I run 610mm full extension pin to pin shocks. You guys must be using bigger shocks or our RRC is a freak:cool: Although cranked arms would increase the down angle of the shaft I suppose. Is this why ??????

Justin

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Hmm odd, I would have expected yours to hit that crossmember, exspecially with 610mm shocks (is that base of pin to base of pin?).

IIRC my front Bilsteins are approx 650mm base of pin to base of pin so not much longer (405 compressed with a stroke of just 9.6" or 245mm).

Running standard driveshafts and cranked arms you loose about 2mm of clearance at the crossmember.
In my case I actually have not lost any clearance as the aftermarket DC joint protrudes further than a single uni, hence moving the shaft out and away from the crossmember (but only a very small amount).

I have found all my rangies to foul on the sqaure crossmember. This is my first modification to a round crossmember so can't really compare it with anything else.