Reply With QuoteUmm... Rust?
Alloy panels? Rust?
Fossicker
G'day guys, just wanted anyones experience or advice on chequer plate for defenders.
I have read that when the chequer plate is removed, there has been quite a bit of rust around the holes that have to be pre drilled to mount the c/p!
My concern is, I've got a new 110 coming in the next month or two and have bought some wing top c/p and now I'm not sure I want to go drilling into the new car if its going to improve the chances of it rusting out!
The wing tops came with the rubber gromet for under it but it also came with stainless bolts. I was under the impression that two dissimilar metals should not be touching at all, i.e alloy and stainless...
I know I could probably put some rubber gromets under the bolts or am I better to pop rivet them in place..
Either way if anyone can shed some light on the best and most effective way of attaching c/p with minimal rust chances I would be much appreciative..
Cheers,
Povman.
Wizard
Umm... Rust?
Alloy panels? Rust?
Wizard
Generic term for corrsion?
I used aluminium rivets on mine, if you used ferrous based ones you might get electrolytic corrosion.
Fossicker
Ok, I probably used the wrong word Rust, maybe I should have said corrosion!Originally Posted by MacMan
I read that the holes had expanded underneath the panel to almost the diameter of the washer holding it in place..
Don't know how long this took and don't know how big the washers were!
Maybe the bolts were loose and over time vibrations had caused diameter of the holes to grow.....questions, questions thats why I'm asking!!
Thanx.
Super Moderator
You will get corrosion with any dissimilar metals. Stainless will promote oxidisation of the aluminium unless there is a barrier between the two metals, even a fibrous washer between a stainless washer and the aluminium an a piece of plastic tube/heat shrink over the thread maybe sufficient stop the corrosion.
Your other option is to bond the plate to the panel using something like Sikaflex which will form a permanent urathane bond between the two. So while it shouldn't corrode the panels you won't be able to remove it later for panel beating or painting etc.
You won't find me on: faceplant; Scipe; Infragam; LumpedIn; ShapCnat or Twitting. I'm just not that interesting.
Wizard
Ah, now I get you.
Correct on the corrosion with alloy and stainless. Galvanised fasteners are far less problematic.
Fossicker
The other alternative is Duralac.
(Whitworths Marine: Duralac Jointing Compound)
It's not cheap, but is used in both the marine and avation industries where this situation exists. I've used it on my Lotus Elise where the steel suspention components mount in the alloy chassis, good stuff!
Wizard
SupporterI always use ally riv-nut into the wingtops, a rubber gasket over the bodywork and then use stainless bolts to hold body and soul together.
Never had a problem yet.
Jon
Regards,
Jon
G,day Povman.In regard to fitting the protective panels use either duralac or barium chromate and consider using monel metal rivets this is a tried and tested method.Seeing you live in Vic.try sourcing the equipment from Moorabin airport and explain it is not for an aircraft ,this can reduce the cost. cheers Lochie
Master
SupporterI use double sided tape, industrial quality from a mate in the business. Could never bring myself to drill holes into the panels
'95 110 300TDI, F&R ARB Lockers, Twine Shower, Aux Sill Tank, Snorkel, Cargo barrier, 9 seats, swingaway wheel carrier, MadMan EMS2
'85 110 Isuzu NA 4BE1 3.6l Diesel, 0.996 LT-95, Rear Maxi (SOLD)
'76 SIII 109" Nissan ED33 5-SP Nissan GBox (SOLD)
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