I have a similar problem on my 101 since I changed the master cylinder. I'd be interested in reading the replies.
regards
Mick
Brakes didn't feel right, extra effort to pull up, so I took them to a local crowd who reckoned everything seemed OK, hoses seemed fine, but said they drained the brake fluid and flushed it to make sure there wasn't a blockage.
Now when I press the brake pedal there is a brief hissing noise from down near the pedal. It seems to pull up alright.
I have a separate problem with the anti-lock brake warning light not going off which I need to get fixed, but I was assuming it would still stop OK without the anti-lock. Trying to avoid a big bill on the anti-lock for a month because of other commitments.
Whattayoureckon?
I have a similar problem on my 101 since I changed the master cylinder. I'd be interested in reading the replies.
regards
Mick
The system may not be 100% bled after the fluid change, the short hiss when depressing the pedal is normal booster action.
The ABS sensors might be dirty, or the connectors loose. Something you can check reatively easily.
Constant hiss means the diaphram in the booster is split but as above a short hiss is normal.
MY08 TDV6 SE D3- permagrin ooh yeah
2004 Jayco Freedom tin tent
1998 Triumph Daytona T595
1974 VW Kombi bus
1958 Holden FC special sedan
Check where the master cylinder attaches to the booster for hairline fatigue cracks. Common 300TDI problem.
'95 110 300TDI, F&R ARB Lockers, Twine Shower, Aux Sill Tank, Snorkel, Cargo barrier, 9 seats, swingaway wheel carrier, MadMan EMS2
'85 110 Isuzu NA 4BE1 3.6l Diesel, 0.996 LT-95, Rear Maxi (SOLD)
'76 SIII 109" Nissan ED33 5-SP Nissan GBox (SOLD)
The booster was recently repaired because it was leaking. Since then we have the hiss...
So, that's good then?
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