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Thread: Leaking inlet valve on toilet

  1. #11
    dmdigital's Avatar
    dmdigital is offline OldBushie Vendor

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    Quote Originally Posted by Mr Whippy View Post
    Ron, Try these

    Google Image Result for http://www.lusanbidets.com.au/products/images/277/SANY3048h.jpg


    I have 23 toilets at my place and whenever I have a problem I fit one of these. I swear by them.

    Dave.
    I'm surprised no one's comment on this statement Dave - Keep 'em guessing hey?
    MY15 Discovery 4 SE SDV6

    Past: 97 D1 Tdi, 03 D2a Td5, 08 Kimberley Kamper, 08 Defender 110 TDCi, 99 Defender 110 300Tdi[/SIZE]

  2. #12
    clean32 is offline AULRO Holiday Reward Points Winner!
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    sorry i cant help, but then i only ever use my outlet on the toilet, i used to have a dog that used its inlet in the toilet but

  3. #13
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    Just buy a whole new "water saving" valve assembly and fit it . I gave up trying to fix the Problem on mine , it was using way too much water on every flush.

  4. #14
    richard4u2 Guest
    does this system have a float valve ? if so then it will have an adjustiable screw to control the height of the float , if you can slip something small and about half a mil thick between that plastic type screw and the arm, that is of course it is over flowing where the water is entering the tank
    or is it not over flowing and just leaking in to the bowl in that case you will need a new tank

  5. #15
    p38arover's Avatar
    p38arover is offline Major part of the heart and soul of AULRO.com
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    The valve assembly is relatively new - the whole cistern is about 2 years old. I doesn't use the old ballcock with a brass valve (that's what I replaced). It's a modern style with a silicone diaphragm.

    I've already replaced the diaphragm 3 times over the past 2 years. The original one had a tear in it and must have been like that from manufacture (sound familiar for me? ).

    I'm getting to the point where I may have to get someone to go and pick a new on off the shelf for me.

    I still want to know how these diaphragm seals work - especially as they have a hole in them for water to flow through.

    I've just found something on the 'net from the page this was on:
    Ask A Builder-Toilet Takes Long Time To Fill

    This is pic of a similar one I found on the 'net. See the hole and u-shaped channel at the boittom.



    There is a very small secondary seal and that is not available as a spare part from Fix-a-Loo. That might be the cause of the leak. I'll have to see if I can make one.
    Ron B.
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  6. #16
    p38arover's Avatar
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    I gave up and bought a new inlet valve assembly.

    I fitted it and.................

    ......... it's faulty.
    Ron B.
    VK2OTC

    2003 L322 Range Rover Vogue 4.4 V8 Auto
    2007 Yamaha XJR1300
    Previous: 1983, 1986 RRC; 1995, 1996 P38A; 1995 Disco1; 1984 V8 County 110; Series IIA



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  7. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by p38arover View Post
    I gave up and bought a new inlet valve assembly.

    I fitted it and.................

    ......... it's faulty.
    My Ability to buy faulty Goods Springs to mind ....

  8. #18
    Colin Mitchell Guest
    Quote Originally Posted by p38arover View Post
    Ok, I'm frustrated and I need the advice of a plumber.

    We have a Gerberit Fors (or Impuls360 overseas by the look of it) inlet valve assembly in our toilet cistern (see Page not found – HTTP 404 | Geberit Australia ). It doesn't always shut off and thus overflows. All we need to do to stop it is momentarily turn off the supply water, then turn it back on.

    I've replaced the main silicone seal (with an aftermarket Fix-a-Loo seal) but to no avail. (The genuine Gerberit seal costs as much as the complete cistern cost us!)

    The problem is that I cannot find anywhere on the 'Net just how this inlet valve works. If I knew that, I think I could work out what the problem is.

    The seal is designed with a hole in it through which a tiny channel flows water. Why I'm not sure but I suspect it is a water pressure thing which balances pressures to shut of the valve.

    Is there a plumber on here who knows how they work?
    oooooooooooooooooooooooo000000000000000000000000oo ooooooooooooooo

    Here is how the inlet valve works.
    When the cistern is filling, water passes around the inlet valve and this inlet valve is a very thin diaphragm very much like a condom.
    As the water level rises, there is an upturned "boat" that rises on top of the water and it pushes a lever with very little force and the lever closes a very small hole through which water has been escaping.
    This water comes from around the condom diaphragm and through a very small hole that is designed to be never blocked.
    Now the water fills the back of the diaphragm and also covers a plunger that pushes the diaphragm against the seat of the valve. The seat of the valve is the ring you can see inside the whole mechanism.
    We now have a situation where the thin condom is being pressed against a ring and the pressure behind the plunger is up to 100 pounds per square inch. The ring is the inlet pipe and it currently has little or no water flowing through it and thus the difference in pressure from the plunger is about 50 pounds as the inlet pipe has an area of about half a square inch. This pressure is so high that the ring literally cuts through the condom after about 12 months and the toilet leaks.

    I have solved the problem by keeping the broken condom in place and making sure the hole is not obstructed. Now place a 11mm or 12mm "O ring" over the pointed blue part of the valve and carefully fit the whole assembly back into the unit and connect the arm. This will take a lot of skill. The O-ring will now do the "shutting-off"
    You will find the water shuts off slightly sooner and it is below the overflow pipe.
    It may leak for a minute as the enormous pressure of "shut off" will take time to squeeze the O-ring into the right alignment.
    Colin Mitchell
    Talking Electronics.com
    talking@tpg.com.au

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