Thread: Shock me

Don't go too hard on the springs,get koni or bilstein shocks,replace all the suspension bush's including ''A'' frame ball joint and get a wheel alignment.If the roads have allot of loose rocks fit large mudflaps on the front. Pat

If you go for Bilsteins, make sure you get the slightly heavier duty ones for the 130 (i.e. heavier then the 110 versions). They have stronger eyes too.

I just got a pair direct from the US, from eShocks. Here's the part numbers (in bold):

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QTY Item # Description Price Total
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2 BE5-6529 REAR Defender 130 XHD $89.95 $179.90
2 BE5-6540 FRONT Defender 130 HD $89.95 $179.90

Sub-Total $359.80
Sales-Tax $0.00
Shipping $0.00
Total* $359.80

Id go with either spud boy or some OME's if your on a tight budget, but if you want to spend a bit more and get more reliability go the next step up the billie tree and get 7100' short body bilstein's, a seperate canister to keep the oil cool and you can get anything from stock length to 14 in travel (so you can relocate the shock mounts) They go for around U.S double the BE5's cost + postage and you can choose / get confused over the valving.

Originally Posted by frantic

Id go with either spud boy or some OME's if your on a tight budget, but if you want to spend a bit more and get more reliability go the next step up the billie tree and get 7100' short body bilstein's, a seperate canister to keep the oil cool and you can get anything from stock length to 14 in travel (so you can relocate the shock mounts) They go for around U.S double the BE5's cost + postage and you can choose / get confused over the valving.

The only downside with 7100's et al is that they use spherical bearings so necessitate fabricating new mounts top and bottom and the the spherical's will flog out pretty quickly in dusty/dirty use and start to click (unless you use Seals-It seals on them)

Originally Posted by rick130

The only downside with 7100's et al is that they use spherical bearings so necessitate fabricating new mounts top and bottom and the the spherical's will flog out pretty quickly in dusty/dirty use and start to click (unless you use Seals-It seals on them)

What about when you use the eye-rod converters?

Originally Posted by flagg

What about when you use the eye-rod converters?

Still need to fab something to replace the top mount, the pin on the OE mount is what, 5/8" or bigger ?

From what I have read on here I wouldn't be using a 130 (loaded) for that task, due to the amount hammering on corrugations you would put the rear half of the chassis through.

I am having some expedition Terrafirma's sent over from the U.k. but leaving the springs as is.
When they come I will report in

Is the TD5 more unreliable than the 200 or 300 TDi or overly complicated for little benefit for the newer model. I am pretty handy for suspension modifications and would rather spend doola on repairs/mods on a reliable old girl than extra $000 on a newer beast.
Again thanks all for the prompt informative info. Great site this!!!!