locker will beat any amount of travel anyday,, tecnicly if u have 2 wheels touching with traction,, you will move ford with a locker, sus will get you so far,
get it wile there still sorta cheap
Leading on from the winch question ... my next question is whether to buy lockers now while I have the scratch and the dollar is good or whether I ought to put my money towards suspension?
The scenario ... I have a County with a 2" lift and CDL, I believe the lift was achieved with taller springs as opposed to other methods. The rear springs are Kings Springs from a 130 fitted to take the extra load in the tray as the PO was a chippy. I have no idea how old the shocks are, fronts are Ironman I think and the rear, no idea. The shocks look old and might do well with renewal, you can't see any maker labels left on them.
Here is my question ... in my reading it has been said that traction is the key off road, pretty simple stuff right? In an unlocked Land Rover like my County ( apart from CDL ) - am I right in assuming that as long as I can safely maximize my articulation ( within reasonable bounds ) in order to maximize my footprint/traction with the ground, then by that logic I might well be able to get much the same performance as a locked 4x4?
I ask this because with a house renovation ensuing I don't have money to devote very often to my own 4x4 whims. I have some scratch now and I am wondering while the window is open whether I should just get lockers while I can ... or would I be achieving much the same for less hassle buy getting 2" longer shocks all round, extending my brake lines and fitting dislocation cones? Then relying on proper airing down off road, work with that instead?
Thing is ... 4 new shocks and new break lines + cones etc would come pretty close to the same money as lockers from the U.S right now minus fitting. What say you all? Does articulation and footprint match up to lockers? Which way should I go?
Simon.
locker will beat any amount of travel anyday,, tecnicly if u have 2 wheels touching with traction,, you will move ford with a locker, sus will get you so far,
get it wile there still sorta cheap
Yep, well setup suspension will get you further, especially with a good set of muddies run at low pressure's.
But still won't come close to matching the improvment's in capability lockers will give you.
the more a wheel travels downwards the less weight over the tyre making it more likely to lose traction, with lockers this aint as much of a problam seeing you have 100% drive to all wheels.
It comes down to wether or not you will be driving hard enough stuff to need lockers or will suspenion and a winch do the trick for your needs.....
CHEERS TIM.
Dads-
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/members-ri...-progress.html
Mine-
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/members-ri...-progress.html
Mums- stock 92 200tdi d1.
You now own a Land Rover 2WD if you fit lockers you will have a 4WD Land Rover, the improvement from a set of Lockers will far outweigh anything else you put on your vehicle, next in line is Maxi Drive axles, spend wisely, I recommend ARB air lockers with Maxi axles and flanges, Regards Frank.
locker in my view save your drivetrain as well as giving you more control
i run standard suspension and have test lockers verse open diffs, sure wheel spin and speed got me over the line but on second attempt with lockers engaged i just idled over the same obstacle, no wheel spin and much safer for the passengers
Suspension improvements are irrelevant if the traction problem is one front one back wheel lose traction but not ground pressure, for example due to slippery patches on a hill - only lockers will keep you going in this case. Both will be effective where the problem is getting cross axled or slipping due to reduced pressure on diagonally opposite wheels.
So lockers are more generally useful (but carry the liability that you are more likely to break things, such as CV joints, although this is largely in the hands or rather feet of the driver). But you need to ask yourself whether the driving you are planning needs either - the vehicle is more capable ex factory than almost anything else.
And for most conditions, dropping tyre pressure is very effective.
John
John
JDNSW
1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol
Hi Simon, mate, i learnt my craft in the disco with open diffs and a 2in lift with some cheap retread muddies. I was a total novice when I started.
I honestly dont think I would have developed line picking skills etc and the craft of working a vehicle up a track if I had put lockers on the truck straight away.
Having said that for instant off road results you cant beat a locker. I love mine, i have them front and rear. In hind sight i reckon only the rear would have done.
But to answer your actual question lockers will have more of a result in terms of capability. but if the suspension is on its way out do the suspension and save for the locker. I would budget for axles aswell, as Tank said, do the maxi drive axles and flanges with the ARB Air locker.
Matt
The 4wd Zone/Opposite Lock Bathurst
263 Stewart Street, Bathurst, NSW
http://www.the4wdzone.com.au/
Discounts for AULRO members, just shoot me a PM before you purchase.
Some great advice blokes ... I am torn right now, so many different ways I could go and so many different combination's of things I could do!
Do I get new shocks all round and get new tie rod ends sorted first ... worry about the rest later?
If I get new shocks, should I get longer shocks and some dislo cones, longer break lines?
How much are Maxi axles and flanges? Maybe I should get those first ... focus on getting the basic mechanical side of the truck sorted first ... now THAT makes sense.BTW* Don't I already have the bullet proof CV's in my County? All I need are the flanges right?
Simon.
Lockers are great, my rear maxi got me out of trouble a number of times but its probably the cause of getting me into trouble in the 1st place.
A locker you will use on the odd occasion, good shocks and sorted ride/suspension you will use even going down the road getting the paper.
50mm lift will need no dislocation cones, brake line extensions or the like.
Just match the length to the springs.
![]()
| Search AULRO.com ONLY! |
Search All the Web! |
|---|
|
|
|
Bookmarks