Built some "4 way" rock sliders/air tanks/steps/recovery points

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Originally Posted by roverrescue

Ben,
what size RHS are your sliders made from?

S

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EDIT 100x50x3

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Originally Posted by isuzurover

http://i124.photobucket.com/albums/p...y_parts052.jpg

This is the height I made mine for maximum clearance offroad. My SO is a few inches shorter than yours, but maybe she is better at jumping :D

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The only problem i can see with these is that they protrude further than the outer line of the body of the vehicle. Would these count as an illegal mod? Or are side steps etc exempt from such silly rules? I hava an idea that in qld at least, nothing can protrude where it may cause injury to pedestrians etc (I wanted side steps on my series but have left them off for this reason)

Very nice mate, well done!!
It doesnt matter if 8 litres is all each slider holds. Thats 8 litres (or whatever yours cube out at) you dont have to wait for when inflating.

cheers

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Originally Posted by pfillery

The only problem i can see with these is that they protrude further than the outer line of the body of the vehicle. Would these count as an illegal mod? Or are side steps etc exempt from such silly rules? I hava an idea that in qld at least, nothing can protrude where it may cause injury to pedestrians etc (I wanted side steps on my series but have left them off for this reason)

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I made my tree protectors/steps stick out the same distance as the flares/eyebrows, so am hoping that doesn't count as a protusion. The overall width of the car has not increased at all, so should be OK.

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Originally Posted by pfillery

The only problem i can see with these is that they protrude further than the outer line of the body of the vehicle. Would these count as an illegal mod? Or are side steps etc exempt from such silly rules? I hava an idea that in qld at least, nothing can protrude where it may cause injury to pedestrians etc (I wanted side steps on my series but have left them off for this reason)

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They don't stick out as far as my previous sidesteps. I cannot see anything in the ADRs or state regs which would cause issues - just as you can fit wider flares if you fit wider wheels...

Btw - IME it is good if they stick out at least that far. In my other vehicle I have rubbed up against rocks and trees while on a side slope. If the sliders don't stick out far enough you can still damage the body as it is leaning into the obstacle (hope that makes sense?).

Nice.

Any chance of some pics of the brackets you have to secure the to the chassis / outriggers ?

I'm wanting to get a set made up for the Defender 130 (nobody seems to make affordable ones that are anyuse). I also want mne to replace that stupd sill panel which (on mine) is a bent as bugery from the TJM sliders/sidesteps bouncing up when they hit something.

Which beggars the question as to how well they are secured - don;t want them moving up and denting the bottom of the doors.....

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Originally Posted by spudboy

Hi Rimmer - how much useful air is held in just the rock sliders do you think?

There was a suggestion on the other (linked) thread that I'd only get about 8L of air in the sliders, and this may not be enough. They suggested I get an air tank from a truck with 20L capacity, but am trying to keep weight down, so if the rock sliders do the job then I'll be happy with that.

If you start airing up your tyres etc, do you get some useful assistance from the stored air?

Edit: Also - what pressures does your pump cut in/out? I have a 70PSI on / 100PSI off switch

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Mine are 75x50x3 so I would expect about the same as Izuzurover.

Haven't tested capacity and the like yet.

As others stated "some is better than none".

Keep up the terrific work, a credit to your skills and motivation!

Tod.

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Originally Posted by VladTepes

Nice.

Any chance of some pics of the brackets you have to secure the to the chassis / outriggers ?

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Here are mine - I used existing holes where possible. Front mounts to the bulkhead/firewall bolt, the remainder are 4x M12 bolts through holes drilled in the outriggers.

http://i124.photobucket.com/albums/p...y_parts055.jpg

I have jacked from the sliders a few times, they are more than solid enough.

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Originally Posted by isuzurover

They don't stick out as far as my previous sidesteps. I cannot see anything in the ADRs or state regs which would cause issues - just as you can fit wider flares if you fit wider wheels...

Btw - IME it is good if they stick out at least that far. In my other vehicle I have rubbed up against rocks and trees while on a side slope. If the sliders don't stick out far enough you can still damage the body as it is leaning into the obstacle (hope that makes sense?).

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I wasn't sure how the regs went. I have a series so no flares and no side skirts, just flat body from gutter to sill. I want steps so it is easier for my daughter to get up and in there but the local 4x4 shop said it has to fit within the original outside lines, so for a series that is nil.

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Originally Posted by VladTepes

Nice.

Any chance of some pics of the brackets you have to secure the to the chassis / outriggers ?

I'm wanting to get a set made up for the Defender 130 (nobody seems to make affordable ones that are anyuse). I also want mne to replace that stupd sill panel which (on mine) is a bent as bugery from the TJM sliders/sidesteps bouncing up when they hit something.

Which beggars the question as to how well they are secured - don;t want them moving up and denting the bottom of the doors.....

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Here's a couple more pics of how the sliders are attached to the 130.

There are 3 bolts at the back (welded both sides), that go through the middle of the beam, and bolt to the outriggers (my 130 has 2 rear outriggers). The recovery point is welded to the head of the last bolt.

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment...ixings-001.jpg

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment...ixings-002.jpg

The middle is bolted via 2 tabs to the under door rail, which used to have the tin skirt attached. I just used the same brackets.

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment...ixings-003.jpg

The front attaches to the bulkhead main 19mm bolt.
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment...ixings-004.jpg

The "winged" thing right at the front is a snug fit to the underneath of the firewall support and should stop the beam twisting. I will drill a couple of holes in it so I can bolt it to the chassis.

The whole top of the beam sits tight against the original metalwork under the doors, which is pretty substantial. If it takes a hit, there is no gap for it to "hammer" against the bodywork as is it sitting right upon it already.