Looks the goods!!!
Got stuck in with the welder last weekend to build my version of what Defender rock sliders should look like.
I wanted to replace the flimsy tin with something more substantial, but I didn't want to reduce the ground clearance by just whacking on some sliders underneath the original sills.
I also wanted the sliders to hold air from my compressor, have tree sliders attached (which work as a step too) and have a decent recovery point on the side too. I've just remembered as I type this that I want to be able to jack from them, so I better go and add something for my hi-lift jack to lock into (to stop it sliding when lifting)
If you want to see more details of how they were built, take a look at posts 26/27 on this thread: http://www.aulro.com/afvb/projects-t...ml#post1422492
The end result after a day in the shed looks like this:
Just got to finish off the welding and prime/paint and should be looking good.
Total cost so far is about $50 of steel and a day in the shed. The second one should be built quicker as now I have all the dimensions sorted.
Cheers
David
Looks the goods!!!
Our Land Rover does not leak oil! it just marks its territory.......
Looks good - however why is the rail angled down rather than up? IMHO it will make it harder to stand on and give you less clearance offroad.
If it was mine I would cut the tack welds and flip it around.
Well - I've angled it down so Mrs Spud can step on something a bit lower (she only has short girly legs - she's 5'9").
I reckon I've gained about 100mm by replacing the tin sheet under the door (instead of putting sliders under the original bodywork - like the LR OEM steps) so losing 20mm from the downward angle isn't too major.
I guess I could un-tack them and make the bottom of the step tube the same height as the bottom of the sliders.....
This is the height I made mine for maximum clearance offroad. My SO is a few inches shorter than yours, but maybe she is better at jumping![]()
I really like the angled down appearance.
As I was informed, a strip of grip tape (sourced from any chandlery) will overcome any issues entering and exiting the vehicle.
Mine are a copy of "discowhites" design and incorporated sockets to take air fittings also.
Great build Spudboy!
Tod.
Hi Rimmer - how much useful air is held in just the rock sliders do you think?
There was a suggestion on the other (linked) thread that I'd only get about 8L of air in the sliders, and this may not be enough. They suggested I get an air tank from a truck with 20L capacity, but am trying to keep weight down, so if the rock sliders do the job then I'll be happy with that.
If you start airing up your tyres etc, do you get some useful assistance from the stored air?
Edit: Also - what pressures does your pump cut in/out? I have a 70PSI on / 100PSI off switch
Last edited by spudboy; 7th February 2011 at 07:01 PM. Reason: Extra question
the air contained in your sliders is better than what most guys have
i thought about doing the same when i built my sliders....thats are far as i got
Ben,
what size RHS are your sliders made from?
S
'95 130 dual cab fender (gone to a better universe)
'10 130 dual cab fender (getting to know it's neurons)
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