Master
My bull bar i made took approx 80 hours including design etc, its worth it when you put it on the truck though, I always look at mine and am proud of the job.Originally Posted by TimNZ
Thanks Frantic, the sliders are bolted to 2 out-riggers at the back, and to the bolt that holds the firewall on at the front. I thought Spudboys idea of having the tube on an angle, (in my case 30deg), was a great idea, (which is why I copied it). As for making extras, I have the same problem as Spudboy, ie the "handmadeness" factor. It would probably be cheaper to buy them as I sunk nearly 16hours + materials into making them, mainly because I had to make most of the cuts by eye with a grinder, (several times...).
Cheers,
Tim
YarnMaster
SubscriberWhat will be the price of a bottle of Australian made red wine? Over here in Lebanon the local production can cost from the equivalent of 6 USD and goes up to 30 USD for an aged one.There is a glut of wine at the moment as well as grapes in AU. Which is good for the consumer.
Swaggie
SubscriberWell tonight I finished up the welding of the drivers side slider. Total time to build the pair has been 3 days, which is horribly slow, but I've had to do a bit of re-work here and there as things bent a tad when I welded the steps onto the sliders.
Earlier in the thread someone suggested that I needed a drain hold to get any water out, so I have built in a plug at the end which can be removed to act as a drain hole:
Someone also asked about how they were fixed to the outriggers, so here are a couple of shots of the 'stubs' I have welded to the outriggers to accept the bolts on the sliders:
On the photo above, you can see the tab I've welded on the bottom to accept the lifter/tongue on a Jack-All high lift jack. The little arms stop the jack from sliding left or right. I have tested it with my high lift jack and the sliders don't move a jot, so pretty pleased with their rigidity.
Priming & painting next.
TopicToaster
How does the jack tabs and the plug fit in with the sliding aspect of them?
I only ask as it seems self defeating and I'm currently drawing up some for the D2 using 150 x 50 x 2 (or 3) to sit under the flat of the sill and the 150 width comes right out to the line of the outer edge of the current plastic trim is now. Then adding the round bar as you've done (for the kids, post 3" lift). I can mount to the body outriggers and also into retained nuts into a number of existing holes in the sills. Was planning on recessing the bolt heads into the sliders but the jack points I wasn't sure about adding due to the anti slide potential.
Swaggie
SubscriberWell, you are right - I guess I lose a bit of slidability with the jack lugs and the drain plug, but they are right at the and of the sliders and I am expecting the middle bits to cop the worst of anything.
Recessed would have been the go, but I was too far into the build when someone suggested these mods.
The jack lugs are only protruding about 5mm and overall the steps are 20mm lower than the base of the sliders, so reckon it'll be fine. If not - I'll have some bent lugs and the head of the drain might snap off, so I'd just have to re-weld/re-drill these back again. Not a huge deal.
TopicToaster
The pic looks like it sticks down much further.
Swaggie
FWIW - I put the drains on mine in the end caps. I also used 1/4 BSPT brass plugs, which sit (almost) flush if you buy the headless (socket head) type.
Swaggie
SubscriberMaybe it's 10mmI didn't measure!
Master
Hey Ben, do you think you'd have time to knock up another set if the price is right and I ask nicely?, they look great, and are practical to boot!
Damn I hope you lot are using PIPE and not tube for the air tank
Components??
If not, I don't want to ever be anywhere near them
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