Reply With QuoteAt least you know the 4.2 makes good torque then!Or is it only a 3.5?
You just cant trust some people.
Hey All
Just want to complain a bit if thats alright...
As some of you may know I had a little accident on the last trip out to Neerim where the rear diff when bang. We pulled the axles and disconnected the rear shaft from the transfer case. A mate had to pull my arse back out and I had to drive home in front wheel drive...Hyundai Excel style.
Well, I finally got around to pulling the diff out to find that the crown wheel wasn’t totally mangled with some only a few decent chucks out of some of the teeth. The pinion on the other hand is pretty much toast with about 4 of the teeth sheared off! Pretty much as I had expected it to be given the noise it was making. Here are pics - Crown wheel and pinion pictures by mcguckiana - Photobucket
Now, I hadnt really thought that I had been giving it too much curry for it to let go, given that I had thought I had 4.11’s in the diffs. Or at least that is what the guy who sold it to me had said it had. So when I finally pulled it out I was surprised to find that the crown wheel had a lot more teeth than normal for a 4.11 gear set and so did the pinion. So I did me a little countin, 46 teeth on the crown wheel and 13 teeth on the pinion. Then I did me a few little sums, 46 divided by 13. . . equals . . . 3.54!!! God dammit Ive been ripped off!
I am wondering how they could had been 3.54's however as the speedo is dead accurate (based on my GPS), the car feels like it get up and goes (despite the tired engine) and it has good low range and engine breaking.
So now, instead of just trying to find one 4.11 which actually needs to be a 3.54, Im now up for two new sets of CW&Ps as Im not going to put another 3.54 back in. Having a look around, Im thinking of going either for the Ashcroft 4.12s or Great Basin Rovers 4.14s as they both are supposed to be a lot chunkier with stronger teeth and thicker crown wheel.
So, after all that...rant over. Thanks for listening.
Angus
Wizard
SupporterAt least you know the 4.2 makes good torque then!
Wizard
If it has ben going ok then why not just put a 3.54 back in. You can pick one up cheap and you only have to get 1.
The 3.54 is still a pretty strong unit.
Nah, if Im going to have to replace it I am going to upgrade it. The extra gearing will help out and improve drivability and fuel consumption.Originally Posted by walker
Swaggie
I'd confirm what the front is first. 3.54's are heaps cheaper.
Cheers
Slunnie
~ Discovery II Td5 ~ Discovery 3dr V8 ~ Series IIa 6cyl ute ~ Series II V8 ute ~
yeah your right Simon, I have to take the front out to replace it with a 4.11 anyway, so I might as well check to see what it is.
Master
Can't you get something like replacement plastic gearing for the speedo?? Might explain why yours is correct running 3.54's and 35's.
By the way, I'd be ****ed off too Angus.
Oh, and I'd definitely upgrade the 3.54's.
You need to change your signature too.
Hmm, thanks mate. I just getting confused by all the debate about the strength of this diff vs that diff...blah blah blah. Some people say the 3.54 are much stronger that the 4.11's whereas other say the opposite as new ratios are improved through their manufacturing. I was happy how the range drove with 3.54s however the 4.11s would be much better...
Master
Supporterfront will be 3.54 aswell, no way it will be differant to the back!
which ever way you go, get them pegged. Will help against future breakages.
1986 Range Rover Hiline
2004 D2 TD5
Know anywhere to get that done?
I didn't think they could be such different ratios either, but people seem to think it prudent to check. I would have thought that if I had a 4.11 in the front and a 3.54 in the back that you would notice... If it was a 4.11 and a 4.10 then maybe not.
Posting Permissions
| Search AULRO.com ONLY! |
Search All the Web! |
|---|
|
|
|
Bookmarks