i bought a genuine skf (?) from karcraft, about $60 iirc. :)
or buy in a dozen cheapies from the uk and keep them in the back ready. :)
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i bought a genuine skf (?) from karcraft, about $60 iirc. :)
or buy in a dozen cheapies from the uk and keep them in the back ready. :)
Maybe fit a goodie, buy a cheapie as a spare then, if it breaks, change back to goodie when I can buy another.
Everything I have learnt about driveshaft angles I believe that because the 2 pinion angles are different is the main reason for the vibrations. Every car I have setup before the disco we had the flanges at the same angle and no vibrations, now I have a disco with this stoopid setup it has the worst vibrations I have ever experienced and that is after replacing everything in front of the rear diff!!!! Next is to do this conversion and see if it helps
Do you own a TD5 BrennoMac?
If you replace the rotoflex with a uni joint you will have a stronger setup, which is what this is all about, but you definately wont reduce vibrations. This 4WD now spends more time touring than hard 4WDing, and has been converted back to a rotoflex joint at the rear to reduce vibrations again.Quote:
Originally Posted by BrennoMac
I have found that my vibration is intermittent. Sometimes I notice it more then other times. As soon as it goes into 4th lock up it's all but gone so I'm thinking it could be the auto. It's a new tranny and I have been talking to the people that built it and they are happy to replace with a new one so see what happens after that.
I'm new to TD5's myself, and tracing vibrations in these things is not the same as tracing vibrations in other cars!Quote:
Originally Posted by BrennoMac
A few months back what we thought were drive line vibes, turned out to be engine related vibrations coming back through the drive train!
injector seals, not only sorted the dying motor, but also smoothed the car a fair bit too.
Now tho, developed a few months since the injector seals were done, we do have a driveline related vibration, which (hopefully)is the front output flange bearing, has a couple of mils of up/down slack.
Vibration is very unlikely to be due to the rear rotoflex. D1's also have a rotoflex in some models(later ones I think), and mine drive beautifully!
1-handbrake linings vibrating against backing plate at 2100RPM.
2-engine mounts
3-front UJs/cardan joint
4-(distant) cracked flex plate
5 if showing running cold on temp gauge, then engine rough as ECU changes timing etc.
6 I suppose buggered dynamic balancer or gone bearings in tensioners or fan bearing
If wheel bearing then usually ABS error.
That's about all I can think of unless it's something rare like CVs or diff bearings.
Regards Philip A