Thread: What Gloss Varnish to Use?

You may have to sand it back before coating it as its original coating may "fry" with a diss-similar product.Unless you can get a hold of the factory spec varnish.
Once its bare any good UV stabalised coating should work.
Andrew

Might be worth trying a small can of "clear coat lacquer" and giving it 3 - 4 coats.

Hi Andrew

Good idea! I was just going to give it a light buff with some steel wool, but sanding makes good sense.

Cheers

Steve

I only use Feast Watson marine varnish on my boat.
I would stear clear of 2 pac epoxy because it has very poor UV properties.

You could try a clear 2 pack rod building epoxy . It is used over the thread binding on fishing rods to seal and protect the bindings.It dries rock hard as a smooth finish and it good for UV, ( Fishing rods are exposed to UV all the time when in use.) I used to build custom fishing rods and those epoxy coatings were the ants pants
it never yellowed or caused discolouration on binding threads
Applying gentle heat will get rid of bubbles in the finish
[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=07kQdHdTaKY]Step 9: Epoxy Finish- Rod Building Made Easy - YouTube[/ame]

Originally Posted by jerryd

Might be worth trying a small can of "clear coat lacquer" and giving it 3 - 4 coats.

x2

I've used automotive clear coat lacquer on everything, if your worried test it first on a small area.

woody

Before you sand it, is it really wood or is it plastic?

A very good point Ron which I have just discovered.

Looking at it closely i thought it was a very thin wood veneer moulded to the plastic base but it is really faux wood. I discovered this when giving it a light sand this morning and accidently sanded thru the plastic print on one corner. A dab with some dark cedar timber stain has fixed the problem nicely though.

I didn't realise Landrover were getting this cheap. Still it looks a lot better than some of the Japanese faux wood.