I would't,time to get a fridgy to have a peek.
It maybe a run capacitor,not a start cap.
Hi,
The other day I asked about handling hydrocarbon refrigerants (propane, butane and other blends), as I have an roof mount aircon with a leak:
license to handle R22a refrigerant gas ?
Well, it is slightly more than that. The compressor is seized. Tried another capacitor, and the motor humms but does not rotate.
Can I bypass the start capacitor for a couple of seconds to see if it helps ?
Thank you
I would't,time to get a fridgy to have a peek.
It maybe a run capacitor,not a start cap.
As Paul said, time to get a fridgy......... not wanting to sound negative toward you but if you have to ask that question you really should be careful
Hi Paul,
It is a start capacitor, this compressor does not have run ones.
It maybe actually seized, as I found the leak because of the oil moist around it. But the compressor has an oil charge of almost 300 cc of oil, and there is no such a big oil stain, just some moist.
Because it is sealed, I can not think in any way to "encourage" it to rotate.
Put a slightly bigger start cap on it and try again. If it spits the new one, the compressors stuffed. Dont muck around with live wires by trying to flick start it, too dangerous. Start caps aren't that dear. It should run a 25uf 240v start
cap. Should only be about $25.00
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You must now cut down the tallest tree in the forest... With... A HERRING!!!!!
Some time ago my heat pump HWS compressor "seized" and I wasn't happy with either the quoted service/inspection cost up front or the replacement price. I belaboured it with the 2lb lump hammer whenever it clicked on (it has a 15 minute delay on switch on.) If I had broken it I would have lost nothing. Eventually after about 20 goes it started and is still running 2 years later. I suspect a metal shaving or similar got stuck in the compresor and is now safely down stream somewhere.
I measured the start capacitor and it was fine. (Yes I made sure it was discharged first!)
Many years before that we had an old fridge that would seize occasionally. A rapid flicking of the power switch generally got it going again.
if you can find one get a suitably rated 240v bimetal switch like a flasher can (or use one of those to drive a suitably isolated and rated 240v relay) and hook that up to the input, let it click away for about 5-10 minutes (depending on the reset time, you only want about 100 clicks) if that doesnt free it up its most likely gone.
if you can get the pump out or can safely turn the thing over as a whole, leave it sit on each side for a minute then when its back to right side up hook it back up to the clicker. Give that a couple of goes (turn it in a different sequence)then give up, its stuffed
Last edited by Blknight.aus; 15th March 2013 at 06:40 PM. Reason: I dont think the last line was even in english last time round......
Dave
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If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.
Just the capacitor, and the whole lot is driven from the thermostat.
The compressor is isolated from the rest of the aircon (fans). BTW, I asked an electrical engineer at the office and he explained me that the capacitor is needed to provide a phase delay to the start winding, so it provides the right sense of rotation.
So bypassing is a bad idea. He suggested me to connect another capacitor in parallel (to increase the overall capacitance) with a relay, and have it connected for just a second during startup.
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