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Lived up there for 10 years in the 90's. Went back in 2010 for a couple of trips and I'd go up there again if the opportunity presented itself...only worry would be my wife's safety. Been in a few sticky 'situations' including having a knife at my throat and a spear at my chest...thank God I got out of that one alive!
It's a lot safer if you've got local knowledge (either yourself or someone you trust) and have your wits about you. As others have said it's also a lot safer out of Moresby, but anywhere you are it's still the land of the unexpected...but that's what makes it so attractive and in a weird way refreshing from life in Australia.
Bad roads and minimal vehicle maintenance at best...if you want to test reliability PNG is a great country for it!
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