Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12
Results 11 to 19 of 19

Thread: Help! Any carpenters here?

  1. #11
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Gold Coast
    Posts
    5,101
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by clubagreenie View Post
    Jambs are measured at their thickest point. So XXX (for width) x 30 or 40 x 35/38/44 depending on if they're internal or external doors, material is immaterial.
    Care to put that into english??? 99% of DAR timber jambs will measure + or - 0.5mm. What has the door thickness got to do with the opening width?

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Jun 2013
    Location
    North Brisbane
    Posts
    76
    Total Downloaded
    0
    I might be wrong Uninformed, but I think what clubagreenies trying to say, is the thickness of the jamb is X. I worked down that way and built that thing that looks like a 3 storey boat hull in Darling Harbour many years ago, and the NSW boys can buy jambs in meranti that have the door stops all built from one piece. Where'as we build our door jambs from 90 be 19 with a door stop on top. Making that 38mm in our terms. Still best to fit doors and pack out jambs from studs afterwards for an easier install, just my opinion. It still dosn't make any difference to door opening though.
    Last edited by WingsOfToa; 20th July 2013 at 07:19 AM. Reason: more information.

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Sydney, you know. The olympic one.
    Posts
    4,853
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Jambs are rebated for wether internal (35mm) or external (40mm) doors. Then there's internal (hollow) semi-solid doors which are 37mm.

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Gold Coast
    Posts
    5,101
    Total Downloaded
    0
    ok some locational differences, maybe. FWIW here in the SEQ and Nth NSW I have hung more doors than I care to remember. Jambs that are single/double rebated or plant on stop, both plenty of times. Treated pine, FJ pine, Merantie, Kwila, Red Ceder, Mixed HWDs etc.

    While door thickness may be somewhat an indicator of location, I have hung plenty of 34mm external doors, plenty of thicker internal doors and there are alot more than 3 thicknesses.

    Jamb width and thickness will be determined by the wall construction and desiered finish. When doing a P50 finish around the jamb, I always recommend to the builder to go for 32mm thick (at the point of hinge) as this ends up being more stable as P50 has no architrave to help support/control the jamb. Plus visually it looks better, again, without architrave you lose that visual body of the jamb/arch look.

    Im still not getting what clubagreenie is on about??? it doesnt matter the thickest point of the rebated jamb, only the point where the door is hung. Where I am 99% of rebated jamb is 19mm at this point and standard non-rebated jamb is 18/19mm so no difference. And the rebate width for internal or external type door or opening will not affect the door opening width. It will only mean make sure you have the correct jamb to suit the door you are using.

  5. #15
    Join Date
    Jun 2013
    Location
    North Brisbane
    Posts
    76
    Total Downloaded
    0
    That's exactly correct uninformed.

  6. #16
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    Tatura, Vic
    Posts
    6,336
    Total Downloaded
    0
    The way I trim doors is slow but gets a perfect result. I have a long straight edge which I clamp at the appropriate distance and then use my router.

    It is also good if the frame is a bit out of square, just adjust the straight edge to suit.
    Dave.

    I was asked " Is it ignorance or apathy?" I replied "I don't know and I don't care."


    1983 RR gone (wish I kept it)
    1996 TDI ES.
    2003 TD5 HSE
    1987 Isuzu County

  7. #17
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Gold Coast
    Posts
    5,101
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by Mr Whippy View Post
    The way I trim doors is slow but gets a perfect result. I have a long straight edge which I clamp at the appropriate distance and then use my router.

    It is also good if the frame is a bit out of square, just adjust the straight edge to suit.
    not a bad way to do it if you have the time. Have you tried a bearing bit and run that along the straight edge.

    Not always possible, especially in steel door jambs/frames that others have installed, but where possible, the jamb should always be hung to the door. That is to say, the doors, if new, are going to have pretty darn good factory edges and be pretty darn square. By making your frame opening that bit bigger (say 15mm O/A in width and 10mm in height) you have room to tweak the jamb. Where you place packers/wedges will determine if the jamb alone moves or if the jamb and door moves. doubel doors are always harder to install than singles because you can have to sides perfectly plumb, good gaps at hinges and down the middle, but the tops can look bad, with tappering, different gaps. This can be adjusted with moving one side up. You also have wind/twist to contend with. You want the doors, as they meet to be flush from top to bottom. This can be adjusted by moving the jamb in or out at tops and bottoms, or by moving the hinge/s in or out if you have that luxury.

  8. #18
    Join Date
    Jun 2013
    Location
    North Brisbane
    Posts
    76
    Total Downloaded
    0
    On double doors, I like to put abit of flatbar on striker side so there are no outside gaps showing. This also may hide any indiscrepancies if any movement happens in the future.

    Personally I try to add wall cavity doors for doubles, as the job means an easy fitout, plus an opened up room if it is needed without doors that may or may not get in the way.

    Or I did, I retired after 24yrs and have a more interesting and less demanding job now.

  9. #19
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Gold Coast
    Posts
    5,101
    Total Downloaded
    0
    yep amazing how good a simple bit of brushed stainless flat bar can look on double doors. Even better when the builder/owner ponys up for real weather stops. On doubles this can mean a T shaped extrusion with slots for the rubber seal. Standard issue on AC unit rooms in high rise.

    wish I could get out of the hammer game......

Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12

Bookmarks

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Search AULRO.com ONLY!
Search All the Web!