Thread: Battery Recommendations

If you have a clock in your vehicle that will drain a battery rather quickly,mine did in the Rangie also anything that is connected to the same circuit,also bad earths on your lighting circuit will not help things.

Originally Posted by steveG

Sounds like a dumb questions, but is the isolator isolating EVERYTHING. Any chance you've got the isolator on the main supply cable to the starter, but something like the brake controller is connected directly to the battery?

Steve

I have two isolator switches. The main one is to the battery under the drivers seat and connects all vehicle operating electrics and winch. The second is connected to another battery for fridge, internal and external camping lights as well as CB and radio. There is no double battery switch re charging as both batteries are charged by their own lead from the alternator, ie there are two red leads coming from the alternator in the standard position that feed each battery.
Chris

Originally Posted by landychris

I have two isolator switches. The main one is to the battery under the drivers seat and connects all vehicle operating electrics and winch. The second is connected to another battery for fridge, internal and external camping lights as well as CB and radio. There is no double battery switch re charging as both batteries are charged by their own lead from the alternator, ie there are two red leads coming from the alternator in the standard position that feed each battery.
Chris

I haven't seen it done like that before.

If I've understood correctly you'd have to have both switches isolated, or you'd have power from one battery to the isolated stuff via the alternator.

If each isolation switch actually works properly by itself it implies that the charge wires go directly to the batteries - in which case even with the isolator switches off the batteries are still connected together via the charge wires. Means a dead/dying accessory battery would drag your start battery down even with both isolators off.

Does that make sense or have I caught the wrong train

Steve

Originally Posted by steveG

I haven't seen it done like that before.

If I've understood correctly you'd have to have both switches isolated, or you'd have power from one battery to the isolated stuff via the alternator.

If each isolation switch actually works properly by itself it implies that the charge wires go directly to the batteries - in which case even with the isolator switches off the batteries are still connected together via the charge wires. Means a dead/dying accessory battery would drag your start battery down even with both isolators off.

Does that make sense or have I caught the wrong train

Steve

Right train, hmmmmm interesting theory, I think you have something there Steve, thanks.
Chris