Thread: building a box for the disco.

I used 6mm marine ply in my draws I made for my Ford Ranger, We braced everything we could, Looking back i really should have got 10 or 12 mm,

also buy the best draw runners you can afford, my first set failed really quickly and i then had to buy better quality. I also ended up running 2 sets of slides on each draw

if you are worried about the weight use 25mm x 2mm thick steel box section to make the external structure and sheet it with .6mm aluminum. you should then be able to get away with 6-9mm for the top and still be able to sleep on it

if u do that u might need to put some rubber between the steel and ally, they react together causing electrolisys

Hi DCP,

I built the system in the back of my defender out of square tube aluminium (about $30 for 6 meters) and joined the corners with plastic clip in blocks (about $1ea - you can buy then with the aluminium).

I used a small self taper at each corner to stop the tube pulling out under extreme pressure.

I got given an old freeway size speed limit sign (aluminium), and I had that bent to go over the top and down the sides of the frame. This provided cover, extra strength and rigidity.

The fridge slide was made using the slides from an old computer server that a mate got from work (free). They're strong, light weight and compact (narrow). The fridge draw I made from right angle aluminium I bought in a scrap yard. As it's only a square frame with a hollow base, it's very light. It has withstood many rough trips and supports the 40 litre Evakool without issue, and without any binding on the slide at full extension.

To finish it I put some closed cell foam on the inside of the aluminium to prevent drumming and insulate the fridge, and marine carpet on the outside.

I attached cargo rails with the adjustable ring latch to the top and sides for securing other items.

Besides the fridge there is a tool draw. For this I used a long steel ammo box from the army disposals and h/duty kitchen draw slides. The slides are mounted to the bottom of the frame using the right angle alum for extra strength, and the corresponding draw slide is pop riveted to the bottom of the tool box. This way I can use it as a draw, or I can slide and lift the whole draw/tool box out and take it to where I'm working.

The whole set up is light enough to pick up with one hand.

To secure it I used a stepped section of aluminium to create a clamp, it's a wide section to distribute the force and not bend the frame. In my case (Defender), it clamps the frame down between the wheel arches.

All up, less than $100 (not inc cargo rails) and it won't weigh down your suspension.

All up, less than $100 (not inc cargo rails) and it won't weigh down your suspension.[/QUOTE]


Hello Michael 2.

Any Photographs you can post up of your set up? Please

Kind Regards
Lionel

I have used 12mm ply on my first version, the draw I used the nylon boat slide stuff from bcf instead of runners.
Version two now has 12mm top and bottom but the vertical sections are now 15mm as I had some in the shed.

From memory the four threaded bolt holes are 10mm. Not sure whether the pitch is 1.25 or 1.5. My money would be on 1.5.

I changed my thread to 3/8 NC, as I wanted them to be stainless. I have 3/8NC helicoils in the shed.

I found this on the internet, going to give it a go down the track, might suit you, Bob

How to make 4wd Storage drawer system part 1 of 4.mp4 - YouTube