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Thread: Wood work question

  1. #1
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    Wood work question

    Every now and again I get an urge to play around with a little project

    This is possibly not normal for a girl however I do enjoy making things.

    So I have a question about wood.

    is it possibly for me to be able to drill large holes in a piece of wood at an angle...

    I know its possible to do it with small holes but would it be possible with a hole say approx 30 to 50mm ???? without any fancy machinery?

    If so how is it done and would it be done with a hole saw?

    I do have a drill press up in the shed so I guess that would be a benefit but would I have to have a tilting drill press table, or can it be done by other means...

    The wood I'm thinking of is just some off cuts left over from the fencing so its a hard wood rail which I think is roughly 25mm thick.
    Our Land Rover does not leak oil! it just marks its territory.......




  2. #2
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    Both my daughters are quite handy with carpentry tools!! Depending on the accuracy of the angle, you could simply use the hole saw with a hand held power drill. Clamp the wood in place then attack it with the drill, don't go too fast or put too much pressure on lest you overheat the metal teeth on the saw and cause the wood to burn...just enough pressure to let the hole saw do the work
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  3. #3
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    most drill press tables tilt - does yours ?

    if so drill a small diameter guide hole first then use a hole saw or even a spade bit if you are careful

    ensure that you've got clearance somehow for where the drill bit or saw will comethrough will come through

    try the procedure on scrap first

  4. #4
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    Hi

    I did this with some spade bit about 30mm and a slow speed hi-torque hand held drill. You need to start off slow and anchor the center point of the bit firmly a let the hole build to its full diameter then go normally.


    This was for a garden table legs at 45 degrees and it looks fine.

    Of course a pedestal would have been more accurate and for any sort of quality work, really a no-no.


    Clive

  5. #5
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    If your drill press does not have a tilting top another thing you could do is have a piece of scrap cut equal to the angle that you need drilled and then set your piece that requires drilling on this. The piece of wood would be at the angle required and the drill verticle.
    Make sure you have everything clamped down incase the bit "bites" less likely with wood than steel.

  6. #6
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    sounds like...

    a wooden wine bottle rack type thing in the works here....... dont use a spade bit,itll split the back of the timber as it pushes thro and will probably catch and do all sorts of damage... I speak from a few years of building experience.. I would go for a hole saw with your timber clamped between two bits of scrap to lesson the splintering effect.. Good luck

  7. #7
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    your close cooper

    However I totally miss judged the size I think I may need a hole closer to 90mm

    Whoops.....

    the kicker is I have to drill 4 mayb 5 of them so I want them all to be the same..

    I will however like 87 county has suggested practise on some scrap wood first..I may go up to the shed in a Mo and see if the pillar drill table tilts...I dont think it does it wasnt a really expensive one from memory.

    I might go see what size hole saws I have too as I may not even have any thing big enough..
    Our Land Rover does not leak oil! it just marks its territory.......




  8. #8
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    Depending on the angle, the hole saw may not cut the entire circumference. Have a trial run. For woodwork a tilting table should be accurate enough. My first thought as a former fitter-machinist was a sine table and Jo blocks but quickly realised this is woodwork where a fine tolerance is a quarter inch not a quarter thou.
    URSUSMAJOR

  9. #9
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    A 90mm hole through a piece of hardwood at an angle...as Brian says the hole saw may not cut all the way. I would consider cutting two blocks of wood at the angle of the hole and clamping the final piece between the two so that both front and back surfaces are protected. A holesaw that big may cost you quite a bit.

    Me personally I would run a smaller holesaw (say 75mm) through at 90 degrees, then mark out the final shape of the hole and cut it out with a curved or narrow chisel. Use a rasp to finish to the final shape. I imagine you aren't planning dozens on holes...

  10. #10
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    The Big Hole Question??

    Firstly you'll have to change your name
    Why? because your question is not Dullbird it's perfectly asked and easy to do.
    Bunnings will have the hole saw size you need.
    up to 110mm.
    first drill a pilot hole right through your timber at the angle you want your large hole,
    drill the pilot same size as the hole saw pilot drill
    second drill until the hole saw shows through the opposite side of your timber
    then turn it over and drill back towards the way you have just come through from.
    this will prevent Burrs on both sides of your job.
    remember a slow speed and take your time.
    the slowest your drill press will go is best.
    keep drawing the saw back out and clean the teeth with a brush.
    you now have to post Foto's of the finished item so that it can be marked by the AULRO "experts"
    cheers
    Paul

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