Not a peep, still trying with some other people who should be able to get me an answer.Originally posted by Defender200Tdi
BB & Vlad
Any word from ARB yet?
Paul
The article was in a "4WD Monthly" mag from memory.
I would be wary of that fitment from a rego perspective (at least in NSW) as it may be a cause for rejection.
Reasons for Rejection
1. Any attachment or protrusion projecting forward of bull bar.
Vehicle inspector Bulletin
Bushie
1998 Defender
2008 Madigan
2010 Cape York
2012 Beadell, Bombs and other Blasts
2014 Centreing the Simpson
VKS-737 mob 7669
Not a peep, still trying with some other people who should be able to get me an answer.Originally posted by Defender200Tdi
BB & Vlad
Any word from ARB yet?
Paul
There are two types of people in this world, good and bad. The good sleep better, but the bad seem to enjoy the waking hours
I have a defender 300tdi with arb front bar. i bent both my "recovery" hooks whilst reeling in my winch cable too quickly. these cannot seriously be seen as suitable. ARB has to my knowledge and experience done sweet F$$$K all to help customers with Landies and i assume will not begin any time soon. If i was to use ARB in the future use ARB southside and ask for Andrew. He was a good honest bloke with fair quotes and cutomer retention. Put it this way i have a store twenty minutes from me and i drive the hour if i need
ARB.
I'm busy installing front recovery hooks to both chassis rails through the origional holes for the tie downs with high tensile bolts as well as a new hole further back. I use a 10000lb tree trunk protector on both my curent and previous vehicles and have found no rubbing as long as they have been attached properly.
be wary of salesman!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/biggrin.gif[/img] [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/biggrin.gif[/img] [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/biggrin.gif[/img]
...
Pretty **** poor I would have to say.Originally posted by aloa9061
I have a defender 300tdi with arb front bar. i bent both my "recovery" hooks whilst reeling in my winch cable too quickly
Could this be a result of the loading being almost entirely sideways on the hooks, rather than the more or less straight pull with a snatch recovery ?
Make sure you take some pics of your new setup as these would be a great addition to this thread and even possibly as an article for the newsletter.
Thanks.
It's not broken. It's "Carbon Neutral".
gone
1993 Defender 110 ute "Doris"
1994 Range Rover Vogue LSE "The Luxo-Barge"
1994 Defender 130 HCPU "Rolly"
1996 Discovery 1
current
1995 Defender 130 HCPU and Suzuki GSX1400
[img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/biggrin.gif[/img]
I agree with the pretty **** poor especially since it was my mate who did it? same clown who bent my tailshaft!!!!!
Anyway the install went beautifully. pain in the ass but result is great.
The front chasis rails have a very narrow circle in which to put a spanner in to bolt up the recovery hooks. my solution was to take an old 19mm spanner and cut in half. then file down the sides of the open ended section.
I have installed the hooks facing downwards for ease of access and ease of installation.
You can use the origional hole on the bottom of the chasis rails as a pilot and then widen and drill the rear hole. then simply bolt up.
The advantage of this method is that thehigh tensile bolts supplied can be used and a direct even pull off the chasis can be achieved. I tested these out today and they did not rub at all whilst i was snatched up a hill this arvo.
I am much happier with this setup and will try to get photos up asap.
cheers
Looking forward to the photos - hopefully it will be something I can replicate.
Perhaps you'd be able to provide a bit more detail - eg what bolts (lengths etc) did you need/use, how did you drill the holes out (was there plenty of clearance for the drill?) and so on.
Thanks.
It's not broken. It's "Carbon Neutral".
gone
1993 Defender 110 ute "Doris"
1994 Range Rover Vogue LSE "The Luxo-Barge"
1994 Defender 130 HCPU "Rolly"
1996 Discovery 1
current
1995 Defender 130 HCPU and Suzuki GSX1400
I simply bought a good recovery hook from my supplier and used their high tensile bolts. used the oridional hole on the underside of the chasis rails as the first pilot and then drilled another in line further back. using a little wd40 i then expanded the holes. plenty of room for the drill but to be fair my car was on a hoist so access was easier. will put up photos when i get a chance.
you need a pretty good drill for the job as well as eye protection as the metal is bloody hot when it gets drilled out. (i was borrowing a mates.)
cheers
Andy
ARB reply to enquiry
As I mentioned I asked ARB about the recovery points on ARB bars. While the response did not specifically answer my enquiry, it was as follows:
Originally posted by ARB
Thank you for your e-mail inquiry!
In answer to your question about the recovery points on the ARB deluxe bull bar;
Generally it is best to use the standard recovery points on the chassis of your
car for snatch recovery, however, some of our bars have provision for recovery
hooks to be fitted on the uprights. Most new model bars are being designed
without the two eyes at the front, as they now have polyurethane buffers over the
front of the bars adding to pedestrian safety.
I hope the above information is helpful, if you have any further queries you can
contact me on (07) 3266 3255 during business hours.
Kind Regards
Allan Sharpley
ARB Brisbane
ARB Corporation Ltd.
615 Nudgee Road
Nundah, Qld, 4012
Ph: (07) 3266 3255
Fax07) 3266 3288
I have replied to ARB seeking more specific details and will advise if I receive a response.
It's not broken. It's "Carbon Neutral".
gone
1993 Defender 110 ute "Doris"
1994 Range Rover Vogue LSE "The Luxo-Barge"
1994 Defender 130 HCPU "Rolly"
1996 Discovery 1
current
1995 Defender 130 HCPU and Suzuki GSX1400
Hmmm...that pretty much answers the question I think. The fact that they aren't prepared to say the eyes are OK, means to me that they are not suitable.
They mention fixing recovery hooks to the uprights on the bar. I think that would be a good solution to the problem, and better than attempting to fix hooks to anywhere else on the bar, reinforced or not. Consider that the uprights are actually the same members that are used to attach the bar to the chassis (and indeed continue down to form the existing recovery eyes). The rest of the bullbar i.e., the horizontal bit, is actually a separate member(s) that is welded to the uprights. To my thinking, a straight pull would be best applied to hooks attached to the uprights rather than any other point on the bar if direct attachment to the chassis was not practical. My only concern with this would be bending or twisting the uprights in the event of a snatch recovery that was not directly inline. Using a bridle would probably prevent this for most situations I would imagine???
What's everyone else think?
Paul
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