Moderator
Got around to looking at the LR jack today. Didn't bother earlier as I have one that I know works, the standard one I had on my previous car not being much good.
Did I ever get a surprise!
Expecting a bottle or diamond jack.
Instead, it's basically a hi-lift! Stick a little peg into the rear chassis hole, or equivalent on the front bullbar, and ratchet away. Great stuff. The base is wide and firm, and a wheel chock is supplied.
Is this jack as good as I think it is?
Only concern is that by the time I'd jacked through the wheel travel there was only about 60mm left.
It is good except for the following:
The car needs to be failry level.
Suspension lifts will get you into trouble...I can only just get the 33" wheels off the ground.
Can't use it like a psuedo tirfur like a hilift.
Otherwise it is WAY slower that a hilift but still very stable.
It could do woth being about 6-8" longer then it would be fantstic.
Moderator
I'm thinking of junking it and using a hi-lift, if I can get/make something to fit into the holes. Or finding someone handy with a welder and making up an extension which fits into the baseplate and the jack on top of that. It's a damn good jack, just ruined by the short length. I can see some stacking needing to happen offroad and I'm not keen on that idea.
Major Part of the Heart and Soul of AULRO
SubscriberI love hi-lift jacks. (Way better than Hungry Jacks)
Unforrtunately in order to use one on the rear of the Ute I would have to drill a hole in the tray for the jack post.... [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/sad.gif[/img]
It's not broken. It's "Carbon Neutral".
gone
1993 Defender 110 ute "Doris"
1994 Range Rover Vogue LSE "The Luxo-Barge"
1994 Defender 130 HCPU "Rolly"
1996 Discovery 1
current
1995 Defender 130 HCPU and Suzuki GSX1400
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