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Thread: REPAIRS - CHECKS - OVERHAULS

  1. #1
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    REPAIRS - CHECKS - OVERHAULS

    Hi guys,

    Just bought a Series III '88 swb (1974) and apart from the usual problem of starting the engine with low temperature (as low as 8 degrees) and a few rattles I feel I bought a fantastic model, now called Heidi!

    Just checking with you about some checks I am going to undertake, are they enough or would you add something more?

    Please let me know as I want to do it right since the beginning!

    CHECK COLD START – HARD TO START WHEN TEMPERATURE IS LOW (Bondi low temperatures despite brand new battery)
    CHECK – CHOKE SYSTEM, IS IT WORKING AND CONNECTED TO CARBURETOR?
    CHECK – STARTER MOTOR SOLENOID
    CHECK - NEGATIVE GROUND CABLE IS LOOSE AND/OR RUSTED
    CHECK – IGNITION COIL – DOES IT SEND ELECTRICITY TO ALL OF THE SPARK PLUGS EQUALLY? MAYBE HAS TO BE REPLACED?
    CHECK – IGNITION WIRES
    CHECK – ALTERNATOR, IS ENOUGH POWER GOING BACK TO THE BATTERY? HAS TO BE CHANGED?
    CHECK – CARBURETOR. IS IT WORTH CLEANING IT? OVERHAUL IT?
    CHECK – BRAKE FLUID + BRAKE PUMP + BRAKES (NOT VERY POWERFUL)
    CHECK – SEALS ON THE AXLES
    CHECK – TRANSMISSION OIL, METALLIC SOUND (even) WHEN RUNNING IN 4TH GEAR AT 60KM/H, MAYBE LOW OIL LEVEL.

    CHECK – WHITE SMOKE WHEN IDLING AND STARTING BUT THEN IT GOES AWAY WHEN RUNNING
    CLEAN – AIR FILTER + REPLACE AIR FILTER OIL
    CHANGE – SPARK PLUGS
    CHANGE – RADIATOR HOSES + FAN BELT (supplied)
    CHANGE – RADIATOR LIQUID – FLUSH ENTIRE SYSTEM TO GIVE IT A CLEAN
    CHANGE – OIL FILTER (supplied)
    CHANGE – OIL SUMP SEAL (WASHER) supplied
    CHANGE – ENGINE OIL
    CHANGE/CHECK – DIFFERENTIAL OIL (X 2)
    GREASE – STEERING SWIVEL JOINTS
    GREASE – BALL JOINTS + IN EVERY OTHER GREASE INJECTION POINTS
    Attached Images Attached Images

  2. #2
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    Hi Andrea II 88
    Sound and looks like you have found a good one!
    Best bet is to get it running and up to operating temperature once you have checked all the fluids and the you will soon see what needs doing.
    Also check the brakes (foot and hand brakes) and clutch before you drive it as they are one of the first things you will need to attend to if it has stood for any length of time
    If they don't work ask for mor advise or search here
    Great to have you on board!
    Phil B
    Phil B

    Custodian of:
    1974 S3 swb wagon (sold)
    1978 S3 swb canvas
    48 749 '88 4x4 Perentie
    1985 County with 4BD1T

  3. #3
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    Hi Phil,

    Thank you very much for the tips!

    Yes, I think I have picked a well maintained model, the chassis was probably steam cleaned and re-painted, after a quick inspection it didn't look it had any rusty surface painted over.
    Inside the cabin it is pretty straight forward, need new sets of seats (all 3) and to change all of the windows gummy seals and channels. Lucky these parts are still pretty cheap to buy!

    Keep you posted on the progress!

    Andrea

  4. #4
    D-Fen-Der Guest

    300Tdi Starter Solenoid

    Hi all, I have traced my starting problem to the solenoid on my 1998 300tdi. I removed the starter and the solenoid now I am looking for a new solenoid, but having difficulty finding the right part number. Also, are these solenoids repairable? Mine looks ok on the inside, but the terminals look bad...really bad. Thank you for any helpful advice

  5. #5
    JDNSW's Avatar
    JDNSW is offline RoverLord Silver Subscriber
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    You may do better posting this in the appropriate technical forum under 90/110/Defender.
    John

    JDNSW
    1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
    1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Andrea II 88 View Post
    Hi guys,

    Just bought a Series III '88 swb (1974) and apart from the usual problem of starting the engine with low temperature (as low as 8 degrees) and a few rattles I feel I bought a fantastic model, now called Heidi!

    Just checking with you about some checks I am going to undertake, are they enough or would you add something more?

    Please let me know as I want to do it right since the beginning!

    CHECK COLD START – HARD TO START WHEN TEMPERATURE IS LOW (Bondi low temperatures despite brand new battery)
    CHECK – CHOKE SYSTEM, IS IT WORKING AND CONNECTED TO CARBURETOR?
    ………………..
    CHECK – ALTERNATOR, IS ENOUGH POWER GOING BACK TO THE BATTERY? HAS TO BE CHANGED?...……………...Hard Starting can be all of the above and also engine oil that is too thick.
    ………..
    CHECK – BRAKE FLUID + BRAKE PUMP + BRAKES (NOT VERY POWERFUL)……..Brake fluid can absorb moisture from the air especially if the car has stood for a while and doesn't get enough use/heat to boil it off. There are testers for this which mechanics probably have.
    ………………………….
    CHANGE/CHECK – DIFFERENTIAL OIL (X 2). There should be 3 diffs, front, rear and centre, I think the centre one is contained in the transfer case/low box?
    Quote Originally Posted by JDNSW View Post
    You may do better posting this in the appropriate technical forum under 90/110/Defender.
    But as JD alludes to, I'm no expert, unlike the guys in the appropriate Series forum section https://www.aulro.com/afvb/series-iii/ Maybe one of the Mods can move this thread for you.

    Happy motoring,
    Randy
    2005 D3 TDV6 Present
    1999 D2 TD5 Gone

  7. #7
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    D'day

    My suggestion would be to contact M.R. Automotive at Redcliffe Qld,07 3284 6688.

    cheers

  8. #8
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    Does it have a proper choke ? (ie: a manual dash knob). If so, just haul that sucker on and see if the choke flag shuts... if it's hard to start because it wants to crank for ages before it catches .... check the one one valve in the fuel pump. The fuel is probably draining back to the tank overnight.
    Proper cars--
    '92 Range Rover 3.8V8 ... 5spd manual
    '85 Series II CX2500 GTi Turbo I :burnrubber:
    '63 ID19 x 2 :wheelchair:
    '72 DS21 ie 5spd pallas
    Modern Junk:
    '07 Poogoe 407 HDi 6spd manual :zzz:
    '11 Poogoe RCZ HDI 6spd manual

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