Thread: Mowing season again

Originally Posted by DoubleChevron

We have had a very wet few month in southern victoria. I've been digging drains all over the place (and planning more drainage) to try and make sure we don't end up in a muddy mess again. There is going to be a few sunny days this week. Given the ground is so wet, I'm expecting the grass grow like crazy. The tractor takes the pressure right off grass cutting. As it doesn't matter if the grass gets to long and thick for the ride-on to cut.

Saitch, did you get hammer or knife type flails? Mine is a knife type (as I use it for finishing). I can't help but think a quality hammer type flail would be amazing, I've seem the roadside where they have used a flail to clear large gorse bushes (along with the grass) along fence lines. To do that the flail must be on an arm so it can start at the top of the bush and be lowered onto it (probably a big tractor with an arm mounted flail like they use to cut the sides of the road where its a cliff/deep cut into a hillside).

seeya
Shane L.

Shane, hammer with hydraulic side shift. Photo is of the area which had the suckers. I spoke to a professional operator who told me to go the hammer option for my particular use. No windrows, like a slasher leaves, which is a big + with regard to fire control.
Flail1 - Copy.jpg

Well given I’m slowly wrangling the 165 into shape, I turned my attention to seeing what’s out there as far as a 6’ finishing mower goes.

Seems like the only options I can find are the cheapy Chinese units. While the FIL uses a 4’ version on the TEA20 I wouldn’t call it high quality and you’re always checking behind you to see what’s fallen off, even though the ground is fairly smooth and level.

So, anyone have any ideas here or know if some of these are better that others?

Originally Posted by Homestar

Well given I’m slowly wrangling the 165 into shape, I turned my attention to seeing what’s out there as far as a 6’ finishing mower goes.

Seems like the only options I can find are the cheapy Chinese units. While the FIL uses a 4’ version on the TEA20 I wouldn’t call it high quality and you’re always checking behind you to see what’s fallen off, even though the ground is fairly smooth and level.

So, anyone have any ideas here or know if some of these are better that others?

4foot .... man you'd be quicker with a ride-on. I wouldn't go chinese crap.... given your ground is good enough for a finishing mower I'd be looking at mowers like this. You can easily rebuilt a flogged out one easily ... (bearings, belts .... no gearboxes).

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flails are much higher upkeep .... for exapmle the one I have has 152 blades to upkeep. Its very safe though, I've run over a golf ball .... it just banged around the housing for about 20seconds ... then just dropped at the back behind it. If I'd been using my slasher the golf ball probably would have gone through the neighbours house 500meters up the street

wow ... check this one out ..... I want!


mower1.jpgmower2.jpg

He he, that reminds me of the best golf shot I ever saw - came out the front of the 8’ grounds mower I was running - John Daly wouldn’t have been able to hit one as far - last seen still heading up over the Macalister River into a paddock... 😁

Worksafe made me put some extra guards on it about 6 months later when they visited where I was working. Put pay to such a shot ever happening again...

Now I have some more learning to do. I was just cutting some grass and noticed I was being followed aroudn by a fine spray of water.............. Hmmm... I wonder how you fix tractor tires that are now leaking from one of the big cracks ......

seeya,
Shane L.

Originally Posted by DoubleChevron

Now I have some more learning to do. I was just cutting some grass and noticed I was being followed aroudn by a fine spray of water.............. Hmmm... I wonder how you fix tractor tires that are now leaking from one of the big cracks ......

seeya,
Shane L.

with an even bigger patch on the inside
cheers
blaze
ps will take maybe 1/2 hour or all day

The valve assembly screws out to let the water out. Jack the tractor up, rotate the valve to the bottom, pump up the tyre and remove the valve assembly and the tyre will empty itself. If you are not ploughing anything I would be tempted to leave the water out after its fixed anyway, easier on the drivetrain that way if you don't need the traction.
Refilling with water is done with a fitting that connects to a garden hose and lets air out when filling. Jack up the wheel, set the valve to two o'clock, fill with water and pump the remaining space up as you would a normal tyre.

Fittings are available from your local rural tyre repairer. My bet is that you have hit a rock with your slasher and it has hit the rear tyre, the give away is if the leaky tyre is the one in line with the rotation of the slasher blades (usually the right hand one).

Regards,
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