Thread: Missing rivets

You don't have an Isuzu engine do you?

This sort of failure is, in my experience, the result of vibration. In detail, I suspect it is actually a combination of very small cracks opening in the rivet as a result of fatigue, with propagation of the crack accelerated by corrosion.

I see it in the rivets you note, but also the ones in the rear section of the bonnet.

John

Originally Posted by JDNSW

You don't have an Isuzu engine do you?

This sort of failure is, in my experience, the result of vibration. In detail, I suspect it is actually a combination of very small cracks opening in the rivet as a result of fatigue, with propagation of the crack accelerated by corrosion.

I see it in the rivets you note, but also the ones in the rear section of the bonnet.

John

I have a V8 and the problem is always happening on this section of the body, I was suspecting the weight of the roof rack but I could be wrong.

Patrick

I don't think it would be the roofrack, although I could be wrong. I think it will be vibration, which, seeing you don't have an Isuzu, probably means the roads it has been driven on all its life!

John

Originally Posted by JDNSW

I don't think it would be the roofrack, although I could be wrong. I think it will be vibration, which, seeing you don't have an Isuzu, probably means the roads it has been driven on all its life!

John

You may have a point here, I have been driving it off-road many times for week-ends long and the roads we have are notorious for being badly maintained.
But could what could cause the panel to vibrate as such? should I be locking at verifying the screws and bolts holding the panels?

Patrick

My money is on flex and fatigue... especially if you are using the vehicle off road. Land Rover chassis's do flex an alarming amount, and as the body is bolted directly to the chassis, it has no option but to flex... If you have a full length roof rack, this has the opposite effect on the body... It tries to hold it rigid. (The roof does to a point, but nothing like a full length roof rack). Twist a rectangular box without its lid.. Flexes easily.. Then put the lid on and try and twist the box.. Most of that flex goes.. Now glue the lid on (like fitting a roof rack). All of the twist goes! The two common flex/crack points on 110's are just behind the rear door (your pics) and in the roof just behind where it bolts to the screen.. The spot welds crack out. Just above the drivers and pax doors.. If you try and stop the movement it will only happen somewhere else.