Thread: Tractor talk - log skidding and quick hitches

Quick hitchs are great, you will need to cut off the old ball ends on the arms and weld on the new quick hitch. The ball then fits onto the pins and are left there. Then you basicly drive into implement and raise the arms onto the balls. Tow the logs with the drawbar and not the linkage
cheers
blaze

There aren't many logs around that are so perfectly round that you can't get a chain under it a try some point along it's length, and if they are that round, they should roll easily enough to roll then onto the chain.

I've never had an issue doing this.

Quick hitches are great, but with a bit of practice you'll find you can swap implements fairly quickly, but not as fast as a quick hitch.

cool, looks like I've got a bit of practicing to do with the logs, and searching for quick hitches.

Hi there. Ok, there are two ways of doing this.. The first (as blaze says) is weld on quick hitch ends like the ones in the pic.. They are available in Cat 2 and Cat 3 options which relates to ball, pin and hook size. Assuming your tractor is somewhere between 30 and 100 hp, then Cat 2 will be fine. The balls can be put on the machine, and then you reverse up and lift the linkage until the hooks catch the balls. Latch the latches, fit the top link (quick hitch hooks also available) and away you go. Places to buy are Sparex, BareCo and the original maker Waltershied. If you choose this option make sure you find someone who is proficient in welding to attach them to your arms.

The second is the A Frame Quick hitch... The tractor has a 'male' A frame which is setup and lives on the linkage, and then the implement or implements has a 'female' A Frame attached to it. These are available in 'pin on' or weld on guise. The operator backs up to the implement with the A Frame lowered. Once under the implement A frame, the linkage is lifted and locates and a latch locks it on. These are available from Sparex and Burder Industries. They're a little 'up there' in price but very easy and quick to use....

Re dragging logs about, a simple interlocking drag chain is what we sometimes use.. Set it up like a choker chain on a nasty dog! .. Sometime a nick in the log with a chain saw will help the chain locate. Use a cross bar between the lift arms, and a decent Dee Shackle through the middle hole on the cross bar.. That way you can lift the arms and put some of the logs weight on the back wheels.. Make sure you set the check chains up properly if you're doing this so the whole lot can't swing around aimlessly. A word of warning though.. Lift the lift arms no higher than the center line of the back axle when doing this. If you do the front of your tractor might end up pointing to the clouds!

Let us know how you go. If I was a little nearer, I'd be able to supply all the parts and do the job for you. Cheers.

All I know is, if whatever you have on the back lifts your front wheels off the ground, then unlock the little mechanism that connects the two brake pedals and you can steer by braking either the left or right rear wheel when you want to turn left or right. Works a treat.


(Haven't done that since I was 20 though)

Here ya go.

Junior Arch - LogRite Tools LLC

Thy've got other stuff too, and cant hooks.

however, if this is too much, get a cant hook to roll your log over your chain.

When towing a big log or load, always pull from a point at or below the axle, and not from the 3 point linkage. pulling from above the axle raises the possibility of flipping the tractor if the log/load snags on a rock or something.
Don.