no pulleys needed
truckpull.jpg
I think some of the problem has been the fixation (pun intended) on the word "fixed".
Should that be "fixed in relation to the position of the sun", "fixed in relation to the winch" or "fixed in relation to something else entirely"?
Almost all of the diagrams and videos illustrating a single pulley don't have the end of the cable attached to the same object as the winch. So it is understandable that most people get the impression that there is no advantage when the pulley is attached to the tree.
It becomes quite a different situation when the cable is attached to the same object as the winch.
1973 Series III LWB 1983 - 2006
1998 300 Tdi Defender Trayback 2006 - often fitted with a Trayon slide-on camper.
no pulleys needed
truckpull.jpg
Current Cars:
2013 E3 Maloo, 350kw
2008 RRS, TDV8
1995 VS Clubsport
Previous Cars:
2008 ML63, V8
2002 VY SS Ute, 300kw
2002 Disco 2, LS1 conversion
True. Where I've been at odds with this discussion is exactly that. If the pulley wend on a tree, and the other end comes back to another tree, then the pulley would be deemed to be 'fixed', and no MA is there. When it comes back to the car doing the winching, then it would be deemed to be moving, in an engineering sense, and MA is present.
AM's vid showed that, and maybe one less glass of my favourite and I'd have seen it, but personality got in the way.
JayTee
Nullus Anxietus
Cancer is gender blind.
2000 D2 TD5 Auto: Tins
1994 D1 300TDi Manual: Dave
1980 SIII Petrol Tray: Doris
OKApotamus #74
Nanocom, D2 TD5 only.
My take on this, if you've got yourself into a situation where you need to do all this, then you should have not been there in the first place, the fact is not what they should have done, but what they shouldn't have done to get themselves in the situation in the first place.
The only time you should need a snatch block is if you need to change the direction of the winch rope!!
Cheers Baz.
2011 Discovery 4 SE 2.7L
1990 Perentie FFR EX Aust Army
1967 Series IIa 109 (Farm Truck)
2007 BMW R1200GS
1979 BMW R80/7
1983 BMW R100TIC Ex ACT Police
1994 Yamaha XT225 Serow
Brian, this info is from a magazine that shows readers that you should use a shackle with the eyes of the strap anchoring it pulling on one side of the shackle with the snatch block on the other side of the shackle , doing it's best to spread the shackle apart, as you know a shackle should only be loaded in the bow and on the pin.
The Formula for determining the MA of a pulley system is: The number of Parts of rope Supporting the MOVING BLOCK.
Diagram 2 below receives no MA from the block, BUT as there is twice the length of rope/wire wound off the winch drum (compared to the straight pull) there is a MA due to the fact that the winch is pulling from a point closer to the centre axis of the winch drum, you could gain the same MA by doing a straight pull over twice the distance, (without the magic snatch block) again pulling from a point on the winch drum closer to the drums centre axis.
The diagram described by these dicks at this particular magazine IS NOT a triple line pull as described, the lead rope from the winch to the pulley DOES NOT support the moving block, there are 2 ropes supporting the moving block so it is a MA of 2, Regards Frank.
Wouldn't doubling the amount of force on the pull exceed the rating on the "D" shackles used?.
The Maximum pull on a 12,000lb winch is over 5 tone and most of the "D" shackles we normally carry are only rated at 4.7 tone, So if we double the pulling power from the winch then there has to be the possibility that somewhere in the setup the 4.7 tone rating will be exceeded.
You only get one shot at life, Aim well
2004 D2 "S" V8 auto, with a few Mods gone
2007 79 Series Landcruiser V8 Ute, With a few Mods.
4.6m Quintrex boat
20' Jayco Expanda caravan gone
That second one down in the pic with one pully block,very handy when using the capstan on the front of the series 1.
But no tree protecter in those days...
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