Thread: Traxide

Originally Posted by Pickles2

Spoke to Tim this morning,.....and what an unbelieveably nice person he is.
Pickles.

Are you sure it was Tim you spoke to?
The guy is a complete tosser !

Seriously, what sort of person would let me drive their brand new TD6 Range Rover just to experience it?

Oh yeah, wait, Tim did.

Yeah he's OK !



Glad to hear you are back on deck health wise Tim.

Hi all,
I'm considering investing in the basic D4-1S kit hoping that it serves my situation but wanted to check with those who know.
I drive my D4 maybe once a week, and would only be for like 30 minutes. Majority of the time it sits on my driveway and I tinker with it here and there.
To keep my battery topped up, I have it plugged to a basic $30 solar panel connected directly to the battery and chassis earth.
I'm planning to take the family to a drive-in movie over the next couple of weeks or so, knowing that I will need to be using the radio for a good couple of hours with engine not running (turning radio back on every 10-min) I'm worried I'll be asking people for a jump start at the end of the movie.
If I did have a D4-1S kit installed with a yellow top AUX, will the radio be taking power from the AUX or the main? I'm thinking if they batteries are both connected together, then I might survive the whole movie and can crank easily and drive off at the end.
Any thoughts?
Thanks in advance guys.

Hi setmefree and first off, make sure you only turn the radio on with the ignition OFF. While you will still be using power, far less of the vehicle’s computers are on, thus reducing the amount being discharged from the battery or batteries.

Next, the biggest power draw you are likely to cause is when you open any of the doors. This activates quite a bit of hardware in your vehicle.

If you fit one of my D4-1S kits, you will have more power available, but you will also have a backup source to jump start from if you need to jump start.

With the kit fitted and if you use so much power from your batteries that you flatten your cranking battery, the isolator, in this type of situation, will work in reverse, by protecting your auxiliary battery, leaving it with 50% of it’s capacity unused.

If you did discharge your cranking battery that low that you needed a jump start, you would then only need a single jumper lead, connected from the auxiliary battery POSITIVE ( + ) Terminal to the cranking battery POSITIVE ( + ) Terminal.


Job done.

Originally Posted by drivesafe

If you fit one of my D4-1S kits, you will have more power available, but you will also have a backup source to jump start from if you need to jump start.
.

Thank you DriveSafe for the tip on IGN OFF and Doors Closed. I'm also going to contact you to order a D4-1S and ask a couple of questions regarding battery selection. Thank you.

Hi all.

Just seeking some advise or info on the USI-160 & thought this might be a good thread to jump on.

I've had a Traxside system in my D4 working fine for the last year or so that I've had it, and from what I know, the previous owner had no issues since install, just not sure exactly when that was done.

Last Monday, I noticed the in-cab controller LED didn't light up at all, and I noticed that my fridge had stopped running.

Checked a couple of things out and found the isolator wasn't operating. Battery tested fine, and cables to and from the isolator all checked out fine too.

Any ideas of what to look for next, or time for a new isolator?

Thanks in advance!

Craig.

Hi Craig, give me a call as your isolator, regardless of age, is still under warranty, but if you have a multi meter handy, we can do some on the spot testing, and see what might be wrong.

Try calling Tim from Traxide on 07 5569 2557 or an email to him - his phone line isn’t great at times since the NBN.

He’s a busy man but checks in here often so you might get a reply directly from him but he’s also great to talk to for this sort of thing and prides himself on customer service so he’ll do what he can to fix it.

If it’s beyond repair and an older unit worst case mention you’re on AULRO and you should get a discount on a new one.

Thanks guys.

Tim, I actually had another look when I had a bit more time and found that one of the nuts was a but loose. We disconnected both terminals, tightened and checked again and the controller lit up like normal.
Did a short drive again today and it seems to be all ok, battery charging and relays switching like before, so hopefully that's all it was!

Great to know about the warranty, that's awesome, but hopefully its all back to normal.
Great product mate!