Thread: Varieties of External Screening for Louvre Windows

Many years ago, my father solved this issue by simply building a frame out of 2'x1" timber the full size of the windows, with an upright between each set of louvres. This was laid flat on the verandah, and covered with bronze gauze, tacked on, and then each bit of 2"x1" covered with half round moulding.

The whole lot was held in place by a number of wooden* clips spaced out by lengths of 1" dowel drilled lengthwise with a long screw through them.

*Not sure of this, may have been short sections of aluminium angle

In our case the set of louvres was about four feet high and about ten feet long. I'm pretty certain that the whole ot was one fitting, but you could do it in more manageable sections.

The same house had casement windows, and these were fitted with metal gauze 'blinds' on the inside. These were troublesome, but seem to be the only real solution except for a hinged frame opening inwards - this is better if the casement has a wind out mechanism that can be inside the gauze frame.

My flat in Melbourne had the gauze 'blinds', and I wasn't very happy with them either!

Originally Posted by JDNSW

Many years ago, my father solved this issue by simply building a frame out of 2'x1" timber the full size of the windows, with an upright between each set of louvres. This was laid flat on the verandah, and covered with bronze gauze, tacked on, and then each bit of 2"x1" covered with half round moulding.

The whole lot was held in place by a number of wooden* clips spaced out by lengths of 1" dowel drilled lengthwise with a long screw through them.

*Not sure of this, may have been short sections of aluminium angle

In our case the set of louvres was about four feet high and about ten feet long. I'm pretty certain that the whole ot was one fitting, but you could do it in more manageable sections.

The same house had casement windows, and these were fitted with metal gauze 'blinds' on the inside. These were troublesome, but seem to be the only real solution except for a hinged frame opening inwards - this is better if the casement has a wind out mechanism that can be inside the gauze frame.

My flat in Melbourne had the gauze 'blinds', and I wasn't very happy with them either!

Hello John,

Thanks for the detailed information - much appreciated. As you can see in the louvre photograph - they are in sets that fit under an external awning. I was thinking of making a frame that covers each segment between the awning frame's struts. This will cover two to three sets of louvers. Nothing in uniform in my house. I am sure that I was the first to use a square and a spirit level while doing construction work on the house. I am toying between making an aluminum frame and then mounting the screen to the frame. Or doing a similar thing with timber for the main frame and then fitting an aluminum screen.

Thanks for the tip about how your father made the external box screen and its fixing to the window. I was considering making angle iron brackets to hold the timber frame. Then I thought recently of using the cabinet-making cam and bolt type of fitting for securing the timber screen frame to the window. Or the method of using a long screw like your dad did.

Thanks again John

Kind regards
Lionel

rereading it, I should have mentioned that the 2x1 timber was on edge to get the depth to clear the open louvres. What you need will depend on the exact build of the windows.

Originally Posted by JDNSW

rereading it, I should have mentioned that the 2x1 timber was on edge to get the depth to clear the open louvres. What you need will depend on the exact build of the windows.

Hello John,

Thanks John, I read it as 2 x 1 inches positioned on edge to get correct depth. I will need 70 mm by 25 mm to get full clearance of the louvre pane with the depth being 70 mm. I bought some treated hardwood of that dimensions years ago for the same project. However, it was for a trial that got side-tracked as not being a high priority.

I only found the lengths of timber in July when I had to access my stored timber to do unexpected repairs on my old Queenslander. The fascia/barge board on the verandah had been hiding very old and by then dead rot. It resulted in the corner verandah post swinging in the air, as the bearer was eaten away at the joint. Two bearers, six floor joists, some new floor boards ... and a new verandah post later ...

I could then start framing the sides to close in the corner to make a new room. ! You know one of those quick easy jobs ... before I leaned on the verandah post! Fun - Fun - fun - Not . It turned out that two walls became three new walls. The third wall was a replacement for the old existing side wall that was a bodgey brothers construction of ill-repute.

Got to love the old Queenslander homesteads - they are just like painting the Sydney Harbour Bridge. Just finish one end then you have to start again on the other end.

Kind regards
Lionel

there is a reason I framed my house in steel!

That's why I hate wood even when it's dead it is still moving! Lionel you might want to put some burglar bars across the louvres as well, I believe they are notoriously easy for thieves to remove to gain access.