Go Large !!! In case you have to straighten a chassis!
I've got a decent size bottle jack (IIRC 15 or 20T) and a heap of steel, and am looking to make a press for home use.
Just need to work out the max dimensions - I don't have a heap of storage space, so a small-ish bench mounted one would be easy to stash away, but want it to be able to handle most, if not all LR jobs I might encounter (T-case, suspension bushes, diff work, engine ancillary bearing replacements etc).
The dimension I am questioning is the height of the unit- ie the longest part I'd need to fit vertically in the unit for any repairs on a defender. A browse of the workshop manuals does not suggest there is much I'd need to do inside diff tubes, on axles etc. Depending on the long part, if any, I might be able to get away with bolt-on leg extensions to make a 'full height' press.
I am thinking that approx 600mm wide would be a suitable width.
I also plan to have approx 150mm between the front and rear uprights, giving a bit more flexibility to feed material in from the side of the unit.
Construction will be RHS, 5mm wall thickness, approx 75mmx40mm in cross section. I will weld out the critical parts, but planning to bolt things like the feet (for ease of storage), and pin the adjustable table height with some 1" bright bar.
-Mitch
'El Burro' 2012 Defender 90.
Go Large !!! In case you have to straighten a chassis!
2005 D3 TDV6 Present
1999 D2 TD5 Gone
15T may struggle with a few things, namely rear ball joint.
'93 D1 V8 auto
'93 D1 200Tdi 2-door, ARB's, MD transfer, sill tanks, winch, 2"lift.......
'95 D1 V8 auto......gone
'86 V8 RRC.....gone
I think my press is 10 or 20t and I couldn’t press out the rear radius arm to chassis bushes for the D2. It wasn’t strong enough.
"Land Rover - making mechanics out of everyday motorists for nearly 70 years"
Dug the jack I was planning to use out of the shed. It's a 12T stubby bottle jack.
There is a 20T air over hydraulic unit available, so going to work something like that into my design from a spacing perspective at least. Once the frame is made, most jacks could be used within it quite easily- so might buy a bigger model jack on a needs-be basis.
Planning for 600mm of usable width (should be heaps for a diff, transfer case etc).
There will be an 80mm wide window in the side of the 4 uprights- so can feed parts thru the side if needed.
Overall height could be about 1000mm, which will be reduced by approx 425mm for the sliding press carriage part and jack body- so 575mm usable height- still need to know if this is tall enoguh for Land Rover related home pressing jobs?
Any rigidity shortcomings in the horizontal members could be beefed up with additional pieces of RHS. The stock I have is 75x40x5mm.
-Mitch
'El Burro' 2012 Defender 90.
I would be more tempted to buy a press off ebay or gumtree (can be had for less than $100) and then use the metal etc you have to turn it into what you want - I do know the ones I have used have all bent under heavy loads but could be reinforced.
Garry
REMLR 243
2007 Range Rover Sport TDV6
1977 FC 101
1976 Jaguar XJ12C
1973 Haflinger AP700
1971 Jaguar V12 E-Type Series 3 Roadster
1957 Series 1 88"
1957 Series 1 88" Station Wagon
The standard design is C channel, usually only 2 uprights, and up to 20T (most are less than this). So not the most sturdy.
The steel I have is scrap, doesn't owe me anything, so even throwing a new air over hydraulic 50T jack at it, it'd still be cheaper than most of the lesser rated new, complete units.
-Mitch
'El Burro' 2012 Defender 90.
Toxic
I built a 5hp 240VAC hydraulic press into a a huge old manual press I picked up stupid cheap
The cylinder I used has a 2” piston in a 5” bore from memory
Anyways - 5hp was the biggest single phase motor I could get
The pump i used means overall the pressing force is theoretically 30 ish Tonnes
The frame would be good for well more - it uses 250mm UniBeams of ~30kg a m
For uprights and the Bed
I have 3/4” steel plates bolted to two beams for the bed
Anyways, even with my measly 30T she still groans a bit
I fear your RHS May be a little light even for 12T for the bed at 600mm between uprights?
It will be fine for the uprights I imagine
Now when it comes to size
I was warned by a few knowledgeable people in my build thread
A press is always either a shade not enough or a whisker too much
I can tell you that my thing will do a nice job of Fubarring an LT230 front output housing when “miss-pressing” a bearing!!!!
When building have a think about tooling
Before I built I had a bought cheapy 20T
It was a hateful POS - the pressing component was machines off axis and the press plates and bed were wobbly.
Aim to build something that pushes straight and true and has some manner that you can easily modify tooling to the face of.
Steve
'95 130 dual cab fender (gone to a better universe)
'10 130 dual cab fender (getting to know it's neurons)
Also fear the RHS may not be up to the task.
Come around to work and have a look at our (very) old 60T press, i also have a 20T??? press frame sitting out the side that i have to take home one day. Mite get some ideas.
'93 D1 V8 auto
'93 D1 200Tdi 2-door, ARB's, MD transfer, sill tanks, winch, 2"lift.......
'95 D1 V8 auto......gone
'86 V8 RRC.....gone
Hello Toxic A.,
I had a look at some old threads and there is an incomplete one that was 12 pages long for building a 55 Ton press and another thread which included a completed press. These were interesting threads. It would have been good to see the end of the 55 Ton build!
Anyway, there may be some information in these threads that might help your press project.
Accessed 2nd February 2020 from: Uniformed 55T Press 9th August 2012, 06:48 PM 55t press
H-Frame Hydraulic Press Copyright © 2007 Dave Propst. All rights reserved. Revised 8/22/2007http://web.archive.org/web/20070824140215/http://www.davepropst.com/Article/Art6/Article6.htm
Kind regards
Lionel
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