People like that seem to bull**** their way from job to job to job and do poorly at all of them. They don't seem to realise that people see straight through them.
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That's because they are self deluded, I work with a clown like that and one day he was blathering on about how he'd been everywhere and done everything. One of our contractors was having lunch next to us, and when the bloke with the mouth had left he asked me "How old is that bloke?", I said "About fifty" and he said "Are you sure he is not a hundred and fifty?". So goes to show these types can fool the feeble minded and inexperienced, but not anyone with a bit of knowledge.
While it is recommended to use a a DC/DC charger with lithium charge algorithms, but you actually do not need a DC/DC charger with lithium settings to charge lithium batteries if you are just charging from an alternator ( via a DC/DC charger ). Because no one drives long enough to get the benefits of a lithium dedicated charger so no loss or harm done.
While the fan “might” keep the battery cooler while the motor is running, but unless you run the fan for a considerable time after the motor is turned off, the heat coming off the motor after it is turned off and no longer has air flowing pasted the motor, this heat will still cook a lithium battery.
Agree on this point but the battery they were using was not that great in the first place. A single one of my AMPS brand 100Ah Lithium batteries will power a 2000w inverter.
This is not correct, as the clown himself found out. Most DC/DC charger will reactivate the BMS in a lithium battery that has shut down because the battery was fully discharged.
It is 230vac battery chargers that will not reactivate the BMS in a lithium battery that has shut down because the battery was fully discharged. If the battery charger is a good quality one, then all you need to do is set the battery charger to POWER SUPPLY mode and this will reactivate the BMS.
Once the BMS is back on, switch the battery charger back to BATTERY CHARGE mode and let it do its job.
The video contained misinformation and a total lack of any useful information.
Information like what to look for when trying to get a good quality lithium battery. Or how to test a lithium battery to see if you actually got what you paid for.
Once again, that video is a total waste of time.
Most lithium batteries are not recomended for engine starting but most battery type jump starters are lithium ,reasons ?
The propagation of forum threads!
Drivesafe I respect your experience and admire your ability to promote your business.
However in my experience the majority of people do not want a "superior" Lithium battery for maybe over $1000 but one that will do the job they want for much less.
The report by the subject of this video was about the cheaper end of the Lithium market ie the volume end that most people look at and the end that causes most angst when the batteries do not perform to often unrealistic expectations.
One very prominent ebay seller has obviously been barred from ebay recently due to misrepresentation of the capacity of his batteries . I suspect he is back using another name..
In my case I want a Lithium battery to run my fridge for as long as possible at the lowest cost and am not interested in running a 2000watt inverter.
So I am looking at the lowest priced Lithium battery that meets its specs . I do not have room except for under the bonnet, and I intend to use a temperature tracker to ascertain what temperature the stock battery box gets to. I think there would be many on this forum with similar requirements .
I am more concerned about the starting battery which is next to the turbo but my blue top seems to be coping well after 2.75 years at still 700+ CCA.
Well we would all love that. At present all we can rely on is word of mouth. There have been tests of Renology in the USA which show that they meet spec.Quote:
information like what to look for when trying to get a good quality lithium battery. Or how to test a lithium battery to see if you actually got what you paid for.
Once again, that video is a total waste of time.
A friend of mine bought some cheapies from the Ebay seller and found them to be junk. He got a refund .Ebay rated the seller as 100% even though it was junk so that is no indication. However they have now taken him off.
He is now happy with his latest purchase but I haven't found out the brand.
I couldn't find AMPS brand on Google. Could you advise pricing and specs to the forum?
Regards PhilipA
In this case you’ve provided perfect evidence of the stubbornness of wanting “new tech” when the tech is completely unsuited to your needs, wants or application.
If it’s going under bonnet - it’s AGM for you.
The fan running will reduce capacity / benefits
It will heat soak
Cheaper cells don’t last
DCDC will add a cost you don’t need
A decent AGM will weight a bit, partially offset by not needing a fan/bracket/dcdc etc.
You’ll be able to replace an AGM 3-5 times before you come close to cost.
Totally agree Tombie. Get a good AGM and they last for a very long time as well!
Where is your spirit of adventure? If you don't try new things you will never have new experiences.
I already have fitted a Lithium 34AH to my camper trailer run through a 10amp DC DC charger in the back of the car to run the lights and water pump. The fridge is in the car.
I have not had such a terrific run with AGM batteries as house batteries including Optima Yellow where the bloody thing leaked through the negative terminal after a couple of years in my RRC. Similarly a Supercharge dropped a cell after a couple of years. I cannot recall what happened to my latest AGM as I think I changed it as a precaution before my latest round OZ trip.
I fitted a wet battery 100AH Century 2.75 years ago and it is still going strong . This was as a stopgap until I could afford a Lithium or fit another AGM, hoping that by now the Lithium battery price would drop from the over $1000 that it was then. HA Ha all the scholars who said that they would halve in price are somewhat wrong.( for the same quality)
But something I didn't realise with a wet battery is that the charge rate drops to almost nothing after say 80%. This meant that my 8-9 amp solar panel was only putting say 1.5-2amps into the battery unless the fridge cuts in when it would go up to 5 or so. This meant that it did not get quite to 100% on the second day. It is satisfactory at the moment but I want to see what is possible.
I do lots of things that others do not try, like fitting a Thor manifold on a 14CUX for example or fitting a second alternator to a 91 RRC or fitting the only Provent clone that fits in a D2 when you have a second battery (which works very well thank you) , or switching the starting battery to the second position and placing the house battery in the original position. Or maybe fitting a CDL with the transfer case in Situ.
Some may not work but most do.
I do not think that the original battery position gets too hot as it is on the "cold " side of the engine and already has ventilation behind the headlight but I will place a data logger there to see.
If too hot I may fit a fan and maybe a time delay relay to the fan. In addition be aware that the failure of the test Lithium was at a Constant 50C and fully charged. My usage of the car certainly will not be constant and I doubt I have 10 years to live anyway .
My most immediate little project is to see whether putting an extra hole in the filter housing base with an input behind the headlight will do anything for top end performance , seeing the UK map makers insist no snorkel on highly tuned TD5. maybe so maybe not but lets see. I have bought a housing from a forum member and await its arrival.
Be adventurous . My little projects keep my mind active.
Regards PhilipA