Thread: Are Diesel parts/repair prices justified?

G'day moorey
Yes some parts are way more expensive, others should be basically the same

gaskets, belts, alternator, starter motor ect NO diff
(yes I know tdi alt & starter are dearer than rover V8 but their is no reason accept volumes same as holden Vs honda ect once aftermarket its only volume that dictates price)

For our Tdis injectors & injector pumps very BIG diff, they have to work with high precision at high pressures and are expensive

hard parts, cyl heads, crank, rods, pistons ect are made to work harder (diesels knock remember) and also last longer so are also more expensive.

then you get into newer elec diesels & common rails and BIG $$$ for electronic stuff like piezo controlled injectors ect (ouch)

What do you need, I've probably got it or at least can get / point you in the right direction to get it cheap

Jase

Originally Posted by jase

G'day moorey
Yes some parts are way more expensive, others should be basically the same

gaskets, belts, alternator, starter motor ect NO diff
(yes I know tdi alt & starter are dearer than rover V8 but their is no reason accept volumes same as holden Vs honda ect once aftermarket its only volume that dictates price)

For our Tdis injectors & injector pumps very BIG diff, they have to work with high precision at high pressures and are expensive

hard parts, cyl heads, crank, rods, pistons ect are made to work harder (diesels knock remember) and also last longer so are also more expensive.

then you get into newer elec diesels & common rails and BIG $$$ for electronic stuff like piezo controlled injectors ect (ouch)

What do you need, I've probably got it or at least can get / point you in the right direction to get it cheap

Jase

Actually don't need anything for fender ATM (thank jeebus, with the wifes ongoing jeep repairs), just interested, and ta, i'll keep you in mind.
Diesel mechanics seem to charge way more labour too, doesn't their **** stink or something?
My starter crapped out recently, I inquired about new and reco'd ones, (scarey) then took it to my regular mech, he sent it off to be rebuilt (he says there was virtually no copper wire left, damn bog holes)...total bill, about $250 all up...FOR EVERYTHING...good as new, so no complaints there.

PS, sorry i haven't got you bumpstop measurements, do you still need them?

In some cases it is justified, especially when it comes to fuel system components.

Thats why i invested in every workshop manual and overhaul manual i could find and do all the work myself. Saves me a fortune. I saved $400 in labour alone doing the transfer case seals myself last week. Matt

There are some parts in diesels where high(er) prices are justified. Traditional fuel injectors and injection pumps are made to higher standards of accuracy than just about any other mass produced mechanical parts (Only comparable one I can think of is Citroen hight control valves). Electronic fuel injection equipment such as that fitted to the TD5 have the same tolerances plus they have to recover recent design and research expenditure that so far has only relatively few units to spread over.

Having said this, the price for spares for any car (or anything else) is based only very tenuously on the cost of manufacture - depends on that certainly, but also on other factors such as how rapid is the turnover, is there any competition (can you get it from anyone else), and so on. All of these other aspects tend to point to higher prices for parts for diesels (not as many, last longer, no alternative supplier), and I suspect this may have more influence than the manufacturing cost.

one of the reasons I bought the V8 is parts and labour,,

cheap compared to rattlers,,

no --- REALLY cheap,,


no doubt the forces involved in a diesel are a lot more than a petrol engine,,

but they have been making them for lots of years and there are LOTS of them around

anyone know the ratio diesel to petrol D3?
series3?
D2?


hmmm,,,

I reckon there are significantly more LR diesels sold than petrol,,

PLEASE tell me differently,,

as that would explain the pricing,,,

Series Landrovers all had far more petrol than diesel sold, although by the end of Series 3 diesels may have been around 50% of sales, but overall probably diesels only about 15%.
110 station wagons probably 50% diesel, 50% Petrol, but other body styles almost 100% diesel.
Defender has only been sold in Australia as diesel except possibly a few specials.
Disco 1&2 , my impression is that diesels outnumber petrol, possibly by a large margin, don't know much about D3.
But against this the petrol engines in Discos and 110s are shared with the Rangerover, which not only has been almost 100% petrol, but has thirty years of production history to provide a wide range of customers for parts plus the competition of second hand spares.

Nearly all defenders/ discoverys in UK are diesel. rearly saw a petrol.
Rangerovers are the opposite.
All the military defenders That came through our workshop were v8 petrol.
who wants a petrol engine in the UK at £1 per litre approx 2-3 $

Interesting you bring this up I have a toyota 99 model diesel Bus that I use as a van for work. It has done 216k and has had oil changes every 5k with filter. I treat it with respect never over 110kmh mainly sit on 90kmh never thrashed. It has the 3L motor. Now last week I hear clack clack clack if I go over 2000rpm, so I drive very slowly home.
Next day I ask questions of what where how much. As soon as I say how many k I have done and its a diesel up comes anything from 6 to 8 Grand..something I cant afford at the moment. I say I thought that diesel's treated right can last for 500k plus, not so I am told . I am advised that I was lucky to get 200k from it.. I think this is rubbish I get 400k from my v8 rover's. Well I think to myself I have to find out what it is, and on the net I find many issues with this motor with number 4 big end going bad, so I take a day off work and remove sump and below is what I find.

A broken conrod bolt. The nut was loose and after cleaning sump I find the rest in the bottom. I have spoken with toyota dealers and they say this is common and I should buy a lottery ticket as the rod normally comes out the side of the block. The end cap and bearing as far as I can see are fine . All other nuts are still torqued up. I have orderd a new set of big end shells and a complete set of rod bolts and nuts and will fit them on the weekend. Cost will be app 400 for bits and lab is me doing it. A huge difference from 6 grand. So the doom and gloom picture I was painted may not be. But why so much in the first place just cause its a deisel....I dont understand
Please enlighten me
Brad