Thread: Been on the tools for the last couple of days

Sunday the Turtle ( Series 2A) died brought it home too late to work on it so it will wait.
Monday parts for the L322 Range Rover turned up suspension fault with right front sensor, i removed the old sensor and installed new one. Tried to clear codes no luck, went round and round a few times finally realised i had installed the fuse in the glove box in the wrong slot. Fitted fuse correctly and low and behold it worked i didn't have to get the computer reset it fired up and is operating correctly.
Next came Turtle i thought the starter was shot turned out to be failed alternator so it was a quick fix removed and replaced alternator with spare, the truck is now running fine.
Tuesday daughters Defender 2011 no driving lights and no rear upper brake light. Driving lights had two issues an inline fuse was corroded and the relay was fried so i cleaned the inline fuse and holder. I then replaced the relay but the rear upper brake light was an issue. The light is fed from a metallic ribbon which is glued/ stuck on the window glass. It is terminated at two electrical terminals. A positive and a negative terminal, i tested the circuit and could not get power to positive terminal and i could not get an earth at the other terminal. It appeared the ribbons did not contact the respective terminals resulting in a dead circuit.
I have not had experience with this metallic ribbon system before but found i could get current through the circuit by touching both ends of my test light on the ribbon. So with no experience or knowledge i cut two pieces of very thin tin and tinned them with solder. I then placed each one on the ribbon for both the earth and the power. One at a time and then heated each piece so that it connected to the ribbon and its respective terminal.
It took several attempts but it finally made electrical contact and was able then to reassemble the brake light and it is now operational. I will be searching for replacement ribbons and information as to how to install the same.
In my humble opinion this type of wiring is not something that should be installed on a vehicle built for hard work and remote touring, far to technical for the average person.
Gippy

Originally Posted by Gippslander

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Tuesday daughters Defender 2011 no driving lights and no rear upper brake light. Driving lights had two issues an inline fuse was corroded and the relay was fried so i cleaned the inline fuse and holder. I then replaced the relay but the rear upper brake light was an issue. The light is fed from a metallic ribbon which is glued/ stuck on the window glass. It is terminated at two electrical terminals. A positive and a negative terminal, i tested the circuit and could not get power to positive terminal and i could not get an earth at the other terminal. It appeared the ribbons did not contact the respective terminals resulting in a dead circuit.
I have not had experience with this metallic ribbon system before but found i could get current through the circuit by touching both ends of my test light on the ribbon. So with no experience or knowledge i cut two pieces of very thin tin and tinned them with solder. I then placed each one on the ribbon for both the earth and the power. One at a time and then heated each piece so that it connected to the ribbon and its respective terminal.
It took several attempts but it finally made electrical contact and was able then to reassemble the brake light and it is now operational. I will be searching for replacement ribbons and information as to how to install the same...................

Repco sell a Permatex product that you paint on to fix broken electrical window ribbon, or to rejoin it to connectors.

DL