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Thread: Paint stripper that works on multiple layers

  1. #1
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    Paint stripper that works on multiple layers

    I've just spent the evening removing about 6 or more layers of paint from about 1 square foot of a Military Land Rover bonnet !
    Each layer required another coat of stripper.

    I've checked constituents of several brands and they are all very similar but prices are all over the place.

    Can anyone suggest a paint stripper that will remove multiple layers reliably. If an expensive brand works it might be cheaper than multiple coats of a cheaper brand.

    One day I'll set up for media blasting, until then it's paint stripper.



    Colin
    '56 Series 1 with homemade welder
    '65 Series IIa Dormobile
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  2. #2
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    Quote Originally Posted by gromit View Post
    I've just spent the evening removing about 6 or more layers of paint from about 1 square foot of a Military Land Rover bonnet !
    Each layer required another coat of stripper.

    I've checked constituents of several brands and they are all very similar but prices are all over the place.

    Can anyone suggest a paint stripper that will remove multiple layers reliably. If an expensive brand works it might be cheaper than multiple coats of a cheaper brand.

    One day I'll set up for media blasting, until then it's paint stripper.



    Colin

    Hello Colin,

    What variety of 'media' are you thinking of using - walnut husk to soda, or ... ?

    Kind regards
    Lionel

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lionelgee View Post
    Hello Colin,

    What variety of 'media' are you thinking of using - walnut husk to soda, or ... ?

    Kind regards
    Lionel
    I'll think that through if I ever get the time to set up for media blasting.
    I have a big compressor & a petrol engine to run it, about to collect a blasting cabinet just short of time to put it all together, that's why I'm using paint stripper.

    Colin
    '56 Series 1 with homemade welder
    '65 Series IIa Dormobile
    '70 SIIa GS
    '76 SIII 88" (Isuzu C240)
    '81 SIII FFR
    '95 Defender Tanami
    Motorcycles :-
    Vincent Rapide, Panther M100, Norton BIG4, Electra & Navigator, Matchless G80C, Suzuki SV650

  4. #4
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    It is going to depend on the type of paint and the quality of the prep when it was applied. I got some stuff from Milsome's in the Gully which worked ok on sections of my OKA ( when I find the key to the cupboard I'll tell you what it tis ), but this is not indicative. I don't know what the original paint was, or the layers applied later. But I can say the top coat is enamel that appears to have been applied by opening the tin and giving brushes to a troupe of baboons. A good thick coating of stripper seemed to get through a lot of it.
    Looking for keys...
    ​JayTee

    Nullus Anxietus

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  5. #5
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    I used to use that gel stuff that burnt like hell if you got it on your skin but it worked really well, paint it on and the paint would blister and lift right away.
    MY08 TDV6 SE D3- permagrin ooh yeah
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  6. #6
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    Yes, but most of those have been "discontinued" due to precisely what used to burn you. Probably caustic or something.
    ​JayTee

    Nullus Anxietus

    Cancer is gender blind.

    2000 D2 TD5 Auto: Tins
    1994 D1 300TDi Manual: Dave
    1980 SIII Petrol Tray: Doris
    OKApotamus #74
    Nanocom, D2 TD5 only.

  7. #7
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    Who knows what paint the Army used, there are multiple coats and all possibly different !!
    The stuff I'm using burns, a bit of spit rubbed in stops the burning.

    I got some stripper from Advance Chemicals a while back, listed for powdercoat. Performance was about the same as the stuff from Bunnings I'm using.

    Apply, watch TV for a bit, scrape, apply, repeat. At least I'm in the shed and can watch what I want (currently going through the X-files from the beginning).



    Colin
    '56 Series 1 with homemade welder
    '65 Series IIa Dormobile
    '70 SIIa GS
    '76 SIII 88" (Isuzu C240)
    '81 SIII FFR
    '95 Defender Tanami
    Motorcycles :-
    Vincent Rapide, Panther M100, Norton BIG4, Electra & Navigator, Matchless G80C, Suzuki SV650

  8. #8
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    The constituent of paint stripper (that actually works, not the eco crap) is Dichloromethane. It tends to be a very thin watery substance and it does evaporate quickly. breathing it will dissolve your lungs. They put it in a gel so that it sticks and stays and can do it's job

    It is usually not available anymore as paint stripper to de legislation (at least in the eu) but I can buy it as the raw product (gelled as well) online since that is not illegal somehow. Perhaps the same goes for OZ.

    Good luck finding it and be careful mate

    Cheers,
    -P

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by prelude View Post
    The constituent of paint stripper (that actually works, not the eco crap) is Dichloromethane. It tends to be a very thin watery substance and it does evaporate quickly. breathing it will dissolve your lungs. They put it in a gel so that it sticks and stays and can do it's job

    It is usually not available anymore as paint stripper to de legislation (at least in the eu) but I can buy it as the raw product (gelled as well) online since that is not illegal somehow. Perhaps the same goes for OZ.
    That's exactly whats in the stuff I'm using, 870g/ltr and it takes multiple applications !

    Colin
    '56 Series 1 with homemade welder
    '65 Series IIa Dormobile
    '70 SIIa GS
    '76 SIII 88" (Isuzu C240)
    '81 SIII FFR
    '95 Defender Tanami
    Motorcycles :-
    Vincent Rapide, Panther M100, Norton BIG4, Electra & Navigator, Matchless G80C, Suzuki SV650

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by loanrangie View Post
    I used to use that gel stuff that burnt like hell if you got it on your skin but it worked really well, paint it on and the paint would blister and lift right away.
    Can also make one's skin bubble as my brother found out when we were kids, painting our bikes IIRC.
    2005 D3 TDV6 Present
    1999 D2 TD5 Gone

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