What is the worst car you have worked on?

**p38arover** · 29th May 2025, 08:14 PM

Replacing the PCV system and hoses on the L322 with the BMW M62 V8 petrol engine. They are at the back of the engine between the firewall and the engine.

It's a nightmare getting the Torx bolts out without stripping the bolt head inside Torx socket. I replaced them with hex-head bolts. One lays over the engine trying to get one's hands in and to do stuff, e.g., getting hose clips back on.

I'm not looking forward to replacing the cam cover gaskets nor the timing chain guides.

To be honest, I've thought of pulling the engine out to address the oil leaks. If the front axles didn't pass through the sump, I probably would.

**Tins** · 29th May 2025, 08:21 PM

Originally Posted by p38arover

If the front axles didn't pass through the sump, I probably would.

I can see that presenting some issues.

**Tins** · 29th May 2025, 08:24 PM

Bleeding front brakes on the IIa that had the twin wheel cylinders with the nipple at the very bottom. My suggestion to turn the things upside down was not well received.

**POD** · 29th May 2025, 09:38 PM

Mazda Bongo van was probably the worst ever, engine wedged in a tiny space under the rear load floor, the designers must have thought they would run forever without maintenance. I saw one mechanic almost reduced to tears changing the brake master cylinder on one.
As Colin has mentioned Jaguar though, mine deserves an honourable mention- a coolant hose under the supercharger split and the blower had to come off to access it. There's this bolt that holds the blower on....apparently on the LHD models the bolt can be accessed by breaking your forearm in two places and hooking it in through the cabin air filter. No such luck on the RHD model- engine had to come out to get to that bolt. 5 days work to change a hose.

**RANDLOVER** · 29th May 2025, 10:11 PM

I knew a mechanic that served his apprenticeship at Porsche and promptly changed to BMW when he qualified saying that they were too difficult to work on.

**gromit** · 30th May 2025, 06:59 AM

Replacing the alternator on a Mitsubishi Delica. You really need to lift the body off the engine.

I had to grind down a socket and patch a few skinned knuckles.
Did the job and cured a misfire, the drive by wire was picking up interference from a failing alternator and causing the diesel to 'misfire' !

Replacing a spill pipe O-ring on a Ford Territory diesel, that was fun also .....

Colin

**ozscott** · 30th May 2025, 07:01 AM

Originally Posted by mrs

Suzuki Grand Vitara 2.7l V6 manual

What aspects in particular? Cheers

**mrs** · 30th May 2025, 12:58 PM

Obviously designed for a 4 and they dropped a V6 in so everything is hard to get to, eg you have to be underneath to install the oil filter but you have to bring it in via the top, the clutch hydraulics are hard to get to, the clutch pedal is an afterthought just to name a few

**jerryd** · 31st May 2025, 07:07 AM

Originally Posted by Saitch

Should heavier vehicles be included?

Also, I reckon JerryD is a candidate for comment here.

Without doubt my MG TC has to be in the top three contenders

Driving with gusto I managed to break the crankshaft

I was hoping at first it might have been a problem at the clutch / flywheel end, but after removing the gearbox one could see the movement in the flywheel. So next task was to remove the engine and have a look inside

Fears confirmed, a clean break although it looks like it may have been cracked for many years. Luckily a replacement was found and overhauled at a reputable engineering company

and the engine is now back together waiting to be reinstalled.

But I must say it's the most difficult car I have ever worked on,

**JDNSW** · 31st May 2025, 07:29 AM

I was not actually working on it, but I watched the field mechanic at it - 1956 Ford F800 truck. It was a LHD import and had a large OHV V8. With the spark plugs under the exhaust manifold. Not only did this make the HT wiring harness very prone to getting wet, where it went through the narrow gap between the inner mudguard and the manifold it tended to get the insulation melted, especially offroad and with not much airflow.

The chassis blocked access to the spark plugs from underneath, and while it was possible to reach them from above, it was a long way down and it was impossible to see them without a mirror. Our mechanic solved the issue - with an oxy torch. Four (relatively) neat holes along each inside mudguard opposite each plug, big enough to get a plug spanner in or your hand to put the lead on. Of course, this made it even more susceptible to stopping when driving in the wet (the company was new to Australia, and trying to continue field operations through the wet in the area south of Charters Towers!).

It was surprisingly durable though. It could not be moved when we moved camp at the end of March, and when retrieved six weeks later, the water marks showed it had been submerged up to the top of the windscreen. Drain the petrol tank, change all the oils etc, and it was still operating six months later when we moved the crew back to Brisbane.

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