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Thread: I think I've had enough!

  1. #31
    p38arover's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Scouse
    I'll give you $1000 for it Ron .


    Seriously though, book time is 8.00hrs & I can get a new matrix for around $450-475 through Land Rover (they're $620 list).

    I haven't done one before & I hope I don't have to soon, but if you do need a hand, I would be glad to help. I haven't done too much work on P38a's though but I'm keen to learn now that I have one too.
    $1000!

    I reckon I'd get more breaking it for parts.

    Thanks for the offer, Scott. I'll try the CarGo Metallic Seal Up first, I think. I flushed the system today and I'll drive it around then flush again this arvo.

    As you can guess I really don't want to tackle this job but I may have to bite the bullet. When you first look at the P38A dash, it's a daunting prospect but, in reality, most of the panels come out reasonably easily.

    Ron
    Last edited by p38arover; 27th November 2006 at 10:45 AM.
    Ron B.
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    Previous: 1983, 1986 RRC; 1995, 1996 P38A; 1995 Disco1; 1984 V8 County 110; Series IIA



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  2. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by Quiggers
    Hi Ron,

    I bypassed the heater years ago by having a neighbourly plumber mate make up a u shaped piece of copper pipe, which was attached to the two hoses that leave the front of motor area - a short loop of the supply and return hoses.
    Actually, I happen to have the U-shaped pipe from an older rangie cooling system out in the garage. If needs be, I'll use it.

    However, removing the heater would stop the climate control system from working. The heater is operational at all times, there is no heater valve. The aircon compressor runs a heck of a lot, too, because the system blends hot and cold air to get the temperature one sets on the control panel.

    Without the heater, it might be a tad cold in the car.

    Ron
    Last edited by p38arover; 27th November 2006 at 10:53 AM.
    Ron B.
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    Previous: 1983, 1986 RRC; 1995, 1996 P38A; 1995 Disco1; 1984 V8 County 110; Series IIA



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  3. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by p38arover
    Actually, I happen to have the U-shaped pipe from an older rangie cooling system out in the garage. If needs be, I'll use it.

    Ron
    You can always put that in and then fix the heater later, its not like you will be needing it for a while. If you can hold out i would like to help out in the xmas hols cause i would be interested to learn about the p38a. Matt
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  4. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by lokka
    Ok whats easier dump the coolant into a couple of buckets (so it ca be reused )then flush system with heater on with engin running and garden hose shoved in top hose end that goes to rad and bottom hose off flush till water goes clean then reverse flush rad wiih said hose again shoved in top rad outlet flush till clean reconect hoses fill with water run engin till it gets to operating temp ad sealup run veh for a hour or a day (id go a day)drain system re fill with old coolant and hay presto all fixed total about 3 hrs work and no need to do contortionist classes to get to the matrix (i f$%^N hate workin under dashes) i no what id prefer anyway thats my thought ..
    if you decide to change the matrix id go se scouse that price is good and i rekon all 4x4 would want double and some for it just cause its 4 a p38a
    I flushed it all this morning and will do another flush this arvo after driving it around for the day.

    Some people dislike sealing products as they claim they block radiators. I don't know if they do or not. Do the particles in the sealants damage water pumps?

    Ron
    Ron B.
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  5. #35
    lokka Guest
    Quote Originally Posted by p38arover
    I flushed it all this morning and will do another flush this arvo after driving it around for the day.

    Some people dislike sealing products as they claim they block radiators. I don't know if they do or not. Do the particles in the sealants damage water pumps?

    Ron
    ive used the seal up on heaps of cars and my rangie has had 4 bottles so far but my rad is just about stuffed and ive never had any probs with blockages i just used a bottle in my gf,s dunnydore to get it buy till i had time to fix it it had a leaky welch plug it didnt stop it cause the system was filthy (verry muddy like dam water) only slowed it enough to make it useable (had to top it up every time it was driven and one eye on temp gauge atall times i told her) worked for a week til i got time to fixit i used a bottle of mukowt thats how its spelt to flush system aftr i replaced the plug (which was in a c%^& of a spot)and it still was dirty (man this system was filthy)so i used wynns brand flush and that cleaned it and re filed it with 2 cans of castrol inhibitor concerntrate and tap water and works fine now a week later the system is still fluro greeny yellow and working fine
    Ive also had a couple of mates use it one stoped a head gasket leek that i was sure it wouldent(could here water running into combustion chamber as water was poured into rad)he pulled that plug ran it on 5 cyl's (L28 in 240 k) and ran it for about 30 min and hay presto it worked and permanent to he drove it 4 another couple of years till the rust killed it ..

    best of luck ron

    cheers

    chrs
    Last edited by lokka; 27th November 2006 at 11:56 AM.

  6. #36
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    drain and flush the system, let the whole thing cool wash out the flushing fluid with fresh water, remove the thermostat, crack 3 eggs into the system and fill it up, start the engine with the heater on flat out, bet that stops it...

    my neighbours car has been running on eggs for 4 months now.

    didnt expect it to last that long.
    Dave

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  7. #37
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    black pepper works well in an emergency.
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  8. #38
    p38arover's Avatar
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    I put in the CarGop Metallic Seal-Up and it seems to have fixed it. Keep your fingers crossed.

    http://www.afcinternational.com.au/s.../1008_tech.htm

    Hmm, I just noticed the product pics show a coppery looking solution. The one I used was just a little cloudy but no copper look.


    Ron
    Last edited by p38arover; 28th November 2006 at 12:00 PM.
    Ron B.
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    2007 Yamaha XJR1300
    Previous: 1983, 1986 RRC; 1995, 1996 P38A; 1995 Disco1; 1984 V8 County 110; Series IIA



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  9. #39
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    Fingers crossed mate good luck

  10. #40
    lokka Guest
    Quote Originally Posted by Blknight.aus
    drain and flush the system, let the whole thing cool wash out the flushing fluid with fresh water, remove the thermostat, crack 3 eggs into the system and fill it up, start the engine with the heater on flat out, bet that stops it...

    my neighbours car has been running on eggs for 4 months now.

    didnt expect it to last that long.
    Yep done that one before to and the black peper trick they both work well but the seal up works best ive tryed em all wynns,goss cemiweld,stp brand, barrs,and these big white horse tablet lookin jobbies u gota break in 2 to get em in but none not even the silver s%$# from the states (cant remember wat it's called) work like the seal up i have faith in it good luck ron but as its only a minor leak im sure it will hold up

    cheers

    chris

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